Recommended books

The June 2016 Books Showcased webpage reflects various developments at the TRC, namely the donation of a large collection of European regional dress, especially German items and a collection of Hungarian embroideries, and the start of a new project, namely an encyclopedia of embroidery from Central Asia, the Iranian Plateau and the Indian subcontinent. Due to these and other projects the TRC library is growing rapidly in range and depth thanks to the hard work of Marieke Roozeboom. There are now over 2500 book titles in the database and bookshelves (all of which are noted online) and there are many titles to come, which will help to make the TRC library an even more important textile resource. For previous lists, starting in 2013, please click here.

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APPL, Tobias and Johann WAX (2016). Tracht im Blick: Die Oberpfalz Packt Aus, Regensburg: Verlag Friedrich Pustet. ISBN 978-3-7917-2794-3, hardback, 288 pp., full colour, many b/w and colour illustrations, bibliography and index. Price €25.

A book that accompanies a series of exhibitions held in various museums in 2016 in southern Germany and northern Austria. Each exhibition focuses on a particular aspect of regional dress. The display at the Historisches Museum, Regensburg, for example, called Heimat auf der Haut. Tracht in der Oberpfalz, looked at regional dress in the area around Regensburg in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The book goes much deeper than the individual exhibition, as there are a series of articles about different aspects of regional dress for men, women and children in southern Germany. There are articles, for example, on the history of Oberpfalz costumes in general, dress and identity in the Oberpfalz region, the concept of National Dress, the role of reality and romanticism in creating and looking at regional dress, urban and village garments, as well as paintings and books concerning this theme. There are also a series of articles about specific items of Oberpalz dress, notably the range of headgear worn by women in the region, and the role of the dirndl, which is still worn by many women and girls in southern Germany and Austria on both daily and festive occasions. The dirndl form can be traced back to the early 19th century and the fashionable Empire style of garments worn by urban women (and made familiar in film adaptations of works by the English author, Jane Austen), notably the short jackets that developed into the short, low cut waistcoats that are such a feature of the dirndl style.

Recommendation: this is a specialist book that will appeal to those working on European regional dress, especially that from Germany and Austria.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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DUFTER, Otto (ed., 2011). Trachtenlandschaft Bayern, Sitz Traunstein: Bayerischer Trachtenverband e.V., Chiemgau Druck, ISBN 978-3000355035, hardback, 320 pp. Price €43,99 (also seen for sale new at €25).

An account of traditional dress from Bayern that is currently being worn by various groups on daily, festive and folklorist occasions. There are considerably more, full colour illustrations than text. The book has a myriad of photographic details including bags, the embroidery on women’s caps, men’s hats, belt buckles, shawls, waistcoats, braces, calf warmers, socks and so forth. There are front, side and back images of women and line ups of men, women, girls and boys in the various forms of regional dress.

Recommendation: this book is really useful for identifying various elements of Bavarian regional dress and the hundreds of regional variations, but do not expect much regarding historical information. The fact that there is no bibliography or index makes it difficult to check particular details or go deeper into one area. Good starting point, but at the same time a little frustrating.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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EDWARDS, Eilund (2011). Textiles and Dress of Gujarat, London: V&A Publishing in association with Mapin Publishing, ISBN 978-1-851776-45-0. Hardback, 248 pp, fully illustrated, glossary, bibliography, no index. Price: £35.

A beautiful book with many colour and black/white illustrations. The author has spent many years in Gujarat and has studied the range of traditional textiles from this western province of India. The chapters include an historical introduction to the region, details about contemporary dress (with useful illustrations in the back of the book concerning the construction of the various garments), constructed (a wide range of woven forms), dyes and printed textiles (ikats to block printed textiles), embroidery (from court to low caste forms), as well as craft development and entrepreneurship. The book looks at the range of Gujarati textiles from the last two hundred years or so and uses many examples from the Victoria and Albert Museum’s extensive collection of Indian textiles, as well as items from the author’s own collection of images and objects.

Recommendation: A detailed and interesting book written by someone with a detailed knowledge of a wide range of textiles. The range of information provided makes it a book to have in any serious textile library, as well as a welcome addition to the library of those people interested in Indian handicrafts and culture.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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FAHMY, AZZA (2015), The Traditional Jewelry of Egypt, Cairo: American University in Cairo Press. ISBN: 978-977-416-720-1. Hardback, 222 pp., fully illustrated in colour, short bibliography, index. Price: US$ 49.50.

The second in a series of books about traditional jewellery from the Middle East (the first book was about silver jewellery from Yemen, written by Marjorie Ransom, see here for the review, published in October 2015). The present book is divided into five main sections. The first is about peasant and sha`bi jewellery, followed by desert jewellery, Nubian jewellery, jewellery for special purposes and finally a section on Egyptian hallmarks. There are many details concerning how the various items of jewellery are made, but the main emphasis is on the final appearance, how they are used and with what. The written details are complemented with many black and white, as well as colour photographs. Some of the illustrations are a little posed, but that does not deteriorate from the overall appearance and usefulness of the book. The photographs of the jewellery depict the items clearly with front and back of the items (especially items such as earrings). There are numerous photographs of (mainly) women wearing the various items of jewellery with the traditional form of clothing.

Recommendation: This is one of the first serious books on the subject of Egyptian jewellery (rather than Bedouin or silver jewellery from the Middle East in general). The format of the book, page and design layout make it an attractive book to read. This book should be in the library of anyone interested in jewellery and Middle Eastern jewellery in particular, as well as anyone who is working in the field of Egyptian traditional dress and accessories. Indeed, it will be of interest to anyone with a passion for Egyptian traditions and culture from the last two hundred years.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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KWON, Charllotte and Tim MCLAUGHLIN (2016), Textiles of the Banjara: Cloth and Culture of a Wandering Tribe, London: Thames & Hudson. ISBN: 978-0-500-51837-3. Hardback, 191 pp., over 300 b/w and colour illustrations, end notes, bibliography, index. Price: £29.95.

The Banjara are a nomadic group living in almost every Indian state thanks to their role of transporters of goods, especially agricultural products.. For centuries they have worn brightly coloured garments and many of these, especially the items worn by women, are embroidered and further decorated with small pieces of mirrors (shisha worksh). The book is based on fieldwork carried out with the Banjara by the authors in the late twentieth and early twenty-first centuries. It includes a wealth of information about how textiles were used by the various Banjara groups, and in particular it focuses on the role of embroidery in their lives. The book looks at the history of the Banjara, the role of embroidery, the various styles of Banjara embroidery, as well as its future and the various groups involved in reviving Banjara embroidery, so that it will survive well into the present era.

Recommendation: This book is fully illustrated with many details about the techniques and forms of Banjara embroidery, clothing and accessories. It will be of great help to those who are involved in the identification and cataloguing of relevant collections. A fascinating study of a living tradition.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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MELLER, Susan (2013). Silk and Cotton: Textiles from the Central Asia that was, New York: Abrams. ISBN 978-1-4197-0674-5. Hardback, 336 pp., fully illustrated with b/w and colour photographs and line drawings, bibliography, index. Price: £40.

The author, Susan Meller, is a well-known textile historian who has written various books on the subject of American, European and Russian textiles. The title of her present book suggests that she has taken a somewhat romantic stand, especially as the book is dedicated “To the intrepid travelers who braved the khans and the Bolsheviks, trekked across frozen steppes…..” etc. It is in fact an invaluable book for anyone, collector, museum curator, artist, embroiderer, who is looking for details and information about traditional crafts from Central Asia (with a strong emphasis on Uzbek forms). The book is divided into adult clothing, children’s clothing, headgear, suzani, household items, animal trappings, cloth in general, and then several chapters on the more recent history of these forms, including the role of the bazaar and the Soviet influence. The final chapter is called Album and is a series of nineteenth to mid-twentieth century images of men, women and children with a detailed explanation of what is depicted, range of clothes, textiles and context. The chapter on suzani, for example, is very clear and detailed and is a joy to read. The chapters on adult clothing explain the various forms of coats, where they come from and in some cases, how they are worn.

Recommendation: this book is a must for anyone or any library that is seriously interested in Central Asian textiles and clothing, especially the woven and embroidered forms. It can be used as a dipping-in book (the photographs by Don Tuttle are very good), or to find out more about specific forms. The range and breadth of the subjects discussed is impressive.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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NAIK, Shailaja D. (2014), Traditional Embroideries of India, New Delhi: A.P.H. Publishing Corporation, no ISBN, hardback, 157 pp., line drawings only, short bibliography, index.

A general introduction to the subject of traditional embroideries from India. The author looks at the main types, including chikankari, kantha, kashida, Kashmir, phulkari and so forth, in addition there is a quick look at the embroidery from Gujarat, Manipur and Rajasthan. There are also two chapters that look at metal embroidery and on a small range of simple, embroidery stitches (English names only) respectively.

Recommendation: this book is intended to be an introduction to the subject and not a detailed academic study. It is useful for quick references and for some details that are not found elsewhere. It is clear that the author knows and understands embroidery, but sentences such as “Each art piece depicts an important theme” (page 119) leaves the reader feeling "could I please have some more details and information?". And alas it is not there.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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PARMAL, Pamela A. (2012). Women’s Work: Embroidery in Colonial Boston, Boston: MFA Publications. ISBN 978-0878467785, hardback, 174 pp., fully illustrated in colour, with appendices and bibliography. Price: US $40.

This beautifully illustrated book is the result of ten years of research by the author, who is the Curator of Textile and Fashion Arts for the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, Massachusetts (USA). During the course of her research, some 300 examples of ‘fancy work’ came to light, which also resulted in three exhibitions of needlework at the Museum of Fine Arts. ‘Fancy work’ was the term used to describe embroidery intended for show, in contrast to the ‘plain work’ of making textiles for domestic use. The period covered is from the mid-1600s to the late 1700s and includes samplers, stomachers, borders for petticoats, valances and coat-of-arms. The embroidery threads were usually silk and/or wool, worked on a linen plain weave background. There were buttonhole, eyelet, running, sawtooth, satin, stem, trellis, tent and cross stitches, among others. The social context of embroidery is also explored: needlework was seen as a way of keeping Puritan girls busy and out of trouble; it was an essential part of a girl’s education and was also used to showcase her domestic skills and so increase the possibility of a profitable marriage. A highlight of the book are the photographs and extensive notes about each type of embroidery featured.

Recommendation: This book is of importance to anyone interested in embroidery in general, and samplers in particular. It will also be of interest to anyone interested in American social history of the period, as well as the history of girls and women.

Shelley Anderson

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RUHE, Stella (2014). Dutch Traditional Ganseys: Sweaters from 40 Villages (with 60 knitting patterns), Baarn: Forte Uitgevers BV. ISBN 978-90-5877-359-3. Hardback, 176 pp., b/w and colour illustrations, bibliography, no index. Price: €25.

A basic and important garment worn by many fishermen working in the North Atlantic and Channel regions were hand knitted jumpers (sweaters). These jumpers are normally called Guernseys in British English (and often Ganseys in American English), after the Channel Island of Guernsey, where they were also worn by local fishermen. These garments not only kept the wearer warm, but traditionally the designs on the jumpers were used to identify the village from which a drowned fisherman came from. Ruhe has made a detailed study of a wide range of these jumpers and produced a range of patterns so that the designs can be easily recognized. The various forms have been divided into North Sea coast, Waddenzee and Zuiderzee coastal versions. There is an interesting introduction to the subject of these Dutch versions of the Guernsey jumpers and the important role they played in the social life of many fishing villages and towns. The book contains details about the knitting stitches, suitable threads, knitting needles, and so forth, as well as detailed instructions for re-knitting a wide variety of forms from Texel in the north to Arnemuiden in the south of the country. There are two related (but not identical) books. This example is written in English, and the second one, called Visserstruien 2: 65 historische truien met breischema’s uit 55 Nederlandse vissersplaatsen (see below).

Recommendation: A useful book both for the making of Gansey jumpers and for the identification of Dutch regional fishermen’s jumpers in public and private collections.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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RUHE, Stella (2014). Visserstruien 2: 65 historische truien met breischema’s uit 55 Nederlandse vissersplaatsen, Baarn: Forte Uitgevers BV. ISBN 978-94-6250-019-8. Hardback, 176 pp., b/w and colour illustrations, bibliography, no index. Price: €25.

There are two related books in this series, this particular example is in Dutch, while the other book is in English, Dutch Traditional Ganseys: Sweaters from 40 Villages (with 60 knitting patterns) (see above). They are not identical with respect to text and images. The book looks at traditional, thick and warm, fishermen’s jumpers (called Guernseys or Ganseys), which are decorated in specific manners, sometimes used to identify which village a man came from, should he have an accident or is drowned. The author looks at various villages and the typical designs for these settlements and gives a variety of knitting patterns.

Recommendation: As with her other book, Stella Ruhe has created a useful book for the identification of Dutch fishermen’s jumpers in various collections, as well as for knitting enthusiasts who wish to recreate these intriguing garments.

Gillian Vogeslang-Eastwood

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SKINNER, Tina (2008). Nomadic Embroideries: India’s Tribal Textile Art (from the Sam Hilu Collection), Atglen: Schiffer Publishing. ISBN 13: 978-0764330322. Hardback. Fully illustrated in colour. Short bibliography, no index. Price: US49.99.

This book is a bit of a disappointment. The title promises a lot, but it is basically a book full of pretty pictures, with very little information. It is intended to inspire people with a series of images, with the size of the object mentioned (in inches). But be aware, there are no details concerning what the object is, where it comes from, who made it, or even how it was made. Just page after page of colour images.

Recommendation: This is a book for artists and others looking for inspiration. It is not really suitable for a research oriented library or someone who wants to have information and details (as well as lots of close up details!).

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Over the last few months, numerous books on a wide variety of subjects have come to the TRC Library and some of them are included in the present annotated list. The publications range from studies on medieval textiles and dress, Balkan embroideries, Beer lace, Gothic fashion, to books that deal with the patchwork quilts from the Cook Islands. These books and most of the publications in the TRC Library can be found in the online TRC Library catalogue.

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BASSETT, Lynne Zacek (2016). Gothic to Goth: Romantic Era Fashion & its Legacy, Hartford (Connecticut): Wadsworth Athenaeum Museum of Art. ISBN 9780918333285, paperback, pp. 98, numerous colour images and details, endnotes. Price: US$ 24.95.

The book in question is a catalogue to an exhibition with the same name that was held at the Wadsworth Athenaeum Museum of Art, Connecticut from 5th March 2016 to the 10th July 2016. The exhibition has been used to look at the fashion in a formative period of Western history (political, social, economic as well as with respect to fashion and dress history). The exhibition concentrates on women’s fashion, which in a way is a shame, as the revolutions in men’s clothing during this period were equally relevant, albeit that they took (and are taking place) at a slightly slower pace. In particular, the exhibition looks at various aspects of the arts, literature, music and so forth from the early 19th century to the present day, and how these have influenced fashion from the Romantic era to the Goths and Steampunks.

The exhibition and book include beautiful images of garments, literary works, paintings, prints and accessories from the various periods to give an impression of the spirit(s) of these very different periods. The book covers various subjects, including romanticism, the role of colour and patterns, the influence of religion, nature and the picturesque, the age of Emotion and the various romantic revivals that have taken place in the last 200 years. Interestingly, the garments from the late 20th century are outfits by fashion designers such as Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and Nightwing Whitehead. So should/do these designers and outfits actually represent the Goths and Steampunks? Would they be insulted or pleased at such big names being used to represent them in an exhibition? This point is not really discussed.

Recommendation: A beautifully illustrated book with detailed images that are a joy to look at. This book is worth having in a fashion library as an introduction to the period and to show the main developments.

Available at: https://www.wadsworthshop.org/products/gothic-to-goth-romantic-era-fashion-its-legacy

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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BLURTON, T. Richard (2016). Krishna in the Garden of Assam: The History and Context of a Much-Travelled Textile, London: The British Museum. ISBN 978-0-7D141-2487-2. Softback, pp. 96, colour and b/w illustrations, end notes with bibliography, index. Price: £9.99.

A book to accompany an exhibition with the same name (January - August 2016). Both are about a woven silk textile called the Vrindavani Vastra (literally, “the cloth of Vrindavan”) from Assam in north-eastern India. The textile depicts scenes from the life of Krishna and was probably made in the late 17th century. The textile consists of 12 strips that were sewn together at some point. The strips depict scenes from the early life of Krishna based on the Indian text, the Bhagavata Purana. In addition, the book and exhibition include the Chepstow coat, which is lined with an example of another devotional Krishna textile. A special entry on the book and exhibition is published in Textile Moments.

The book is fascinating as it combines historical and technical details, as well as an explanation of the various designs and how they relate to the life of Krishna and devotees of the Hindu god.

Recommendation: Anyone interested in Indian textiles in general, devotional textiles, the trade and movement of textiles, and just enjoying a well-informed and readable book based on a particular textile and its context. The exhibition is well worth seeing as well!

Available at: http://www.britishmuseumshoponline.org/invt/cmc24872?_ga=1.237708032.1209886707.1354381855

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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FRYE, Susan (2010). Pens and Needles: Women’s Textualities in Early Modern England, Philadelphia and Oxford: University of Pennsylvania Press. ISBN 978-0-8122-2252-4 (available in both cloth ([2010] and paper [2013], 302 pp. (paperback), 21 colour illustrations, c. 30 b/w illustrations, endnotes, bibliography, index. Price (paperback): $27.50 (£18.00).

An academic book that clearly and carefully outlines and discusses the role of the pen and the needle. The book is divided into five chapters that look at different social and economic aspects of written and needled history mainly in the sixteenth and early seventeenth centurie. The first chapter looks at the role of Elizabeth Tudor (later Elizabeth 1 of England), her cousin, Mary Stuart (later Mary, Queen of Scots), and the indomitable, Bess of Hardwick (Countess of Shrewsbury), all of whom in their various ways influenced Tudor (and later) history, and were involved in the design, production and use of needlework.

The second chapter looks at professional painters, Levina Teerlinc, Jan Seaga and Esther Inglis, who were miniaturist and manuscript painters, but who were also involved to some degree in the production of designs that were adapted for needlework. The third chapter looks at the domestic production of needlework (which is not to say the work was of a so-called amateur quality), and in particular why needlework was regarded as one of the virtues of a well-educated woman of the period.

In contrast, the fourth chapter takes the reader into a man’s world and looks at the relationship between women and textiles in two of Shakespeare’s plays, namely Othello and Cymbeline. A thought provoking chapter in itself, which could be expanded into a book. The final chapter looks at Lady Mary Sidney Wroth, who was a well-known writer of prose romance, notably of the book The Countess of Montgomery’s Urania. The book was first published in 1621 and contains a wealth of details about textiles and clothing and the lives of men and women at that time. Her father was Robert Sydney, the 1st Earl of Leicester and as such Lady Mary was a member of an influential, aristocratic family which included the likes of Sir Walter Raleigh. Her knowledge of the symbolic importance of textiles and garments comes across in her various books and sonnets.

Recommendation: This book will be of great interest to anyone interested in the history of women, the role of needlework in the lives of many women, as well as the history of Western needlework in general. It is thought provoking and sheds light on the important role of embroidery in the lives of many women from diverse social and economic backgrounds. It should be in any serious textile library.

Available at: http://www.upenn.edu/pennpress/book/14728.html

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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KÜCHLER, Susanne and Andrea EIMKE (2009). Tivaivai: The Social Fabric of the Cook Islands, London: The British Museum Press. ISBN: 978-0-7141-2557-2. Softback, pp. 118, fully illustrated in colour Bibliography, index. Price: £10 (originally £25, put recently reduced to £10 in the BM shop).

The Cook Islands are an archipelago of 15 tiny islands, which for over 100 years have been included within the boundaries of New Zealand. The people are close relatives of the Maoris of New Zealand. The islands are believed to have been first settled in about AD 1200 with the first Europeans arriving in 1596. It is not sure when patchwork started to be practised on the islands, but what is certain is that by the 21st century it was widespread and took a wide variety of forms, both technically and decoratively. Appliqué, patchwork and quilting are the main techniques, which are sometimes mixed with beading. Flowers form an important decorative element, and the designs produced tend to be large, bold and cheerful. The patchworks are used, literally, from the cradle to the grave. The book includes numerous examples of how important patchwork has become in women’s lives on the Cook Islands as a means of expressing their talent, artistic skills and feelings.

Recommendation: An intriguing book that shows how needlework can play an active and important role within a particular society. This book is for anyone interested in the history of patchwork and/or quilting, as well as for those looking for inspiration. It will also appeal to those interested in the social and economic role of textiles in the life of a community.

See also tifaifai

Available at: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tivaivai-Islands-Artistic-Traditions-Cultures/dp/0714125806 and http://www.britishmuseumshoponline.org/invt/cmc25800

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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OWEN-CROCKER, Gale, Elizabeth COATSWORTH and Maria HAYWARD (eds., 2012). Encyclopedia of Dress and Textiles in the British Isles c. 450-1450, Leiden and Boston: Brill. ISBN 13.9789004124356. Hardback and digital versions, 692 pp, bibliography with each entry, 36 colour illustrations, numerous b/w drawings and illustrations. Price: €217.

A heavy tome (literally) that covers many subjects relating to medieval textiles and dress. There are 582 signed entries arranged in an alphabetical order. It is an interdisciplinary work that uses actual, textual and visual sources. It includes entries about equipment, materials, manufacture, techniques and styles of work. The book covers ecclesiastical, military as well as secular textiles and dress. There are also entries about written texts (prose, poetry and records) relating to the production, storage and use of textiles and dress, including the various medieval, Great Wardrobes.

The title suggests that the book is about British items. However, the range of subjects is much larger and it includes entries about comparative material from the continent as well. The range of subjects and the use of a small arrow to indicate ‘see also’, means that it is easy to navigate and manoeuvre around the various entries.

As with many Brill books, this encyclopaedia is let down by the lack of illustrations in general and the use of colour plates in one section (rather than being spread throughout the book) in particular. These irritations are reduced in the digital version, and Brill has announced that in future (this book was published in 2012) their publications will include more colour illustrations, as the use of colour is a must for any publication about textiles and dress.

Recommendation: This is a serious, academic work that is fun to dip into. I have learnt so much by going from one entry to another and ending up in subjects I had not expected or even knew existed. This book should be in any academic library that has an interest in medieval European life (in all its aspects), medieval British history, as well as in the libraries of those working in the field of archaeological textiles. It will also appeal to those involved in medieval re-enactments (Living History groups), and film and theatre groups who wish to increase their knowledge and accuracy.

Available at: http://www.brill.com/encyclopedia-medieval-dress-and-textiles-british-isles-c-450-1450 It is also available at Brill's Medieval Reference Library Online (BRMLO)

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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RALUI, Gioja (interpreted, 2014). Sardinian Knot Stitch, ISBN 978-1500158057, 71 pp., numerous drawings, charts and illustrations in colour, bibliography. Price: US$ 29.99.

This booklet is about a form of geometric whitework that is associated with the Teulada region in southern Sardinia. It is carried out with a form of knot locally called Punté nù (‘knot stitch’) or sometimes the Teulada stitch. The origins of this type of whitework are unknown, but it was certainly popular in the late 19th century and although it nearly died out in the 20th century there are efforts to revive it by various local and international groups. The booklet contains a general history of the technique as well as detailed and clear details of the basic knot and how to make a variety of traditional and modern designs. The names of the various stitch variations and designs are given in both Sardinian and English.

Recommendation: A useful booklet that will appeal to anyone who is interested in whitework and those looking for a slightly different method of working embroidery. The technical details are well presented and easy to follow. A little more history about the origins of this type of work would have been appreciated, as well as perhaps a list of Sardinian and other public collections with examples, but that is a personal wish.

Available from: Dit e-mailadres wordt beveiligd tegen spambots. JavaScript dient ingeschakeld te zijn om het te bekijken. and via various print-on demand distributors, including Abebooks and Amazon.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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WALLER, Diane (2010). Textiles from the Balkans, London: British Museum Press. ISBN 978-0-7141-2583-1. Softback, pp. 87, fully illustrated in colour, glossary, select reading list, index. Price: £2.

This book is one of the Fabric folios produced by the British Museum. These small volumes present different groups of textiles from around the world (such as Afghan textiles, Andes textiles and so forth). The text is intended to be an introduction to the subject rather than an academic study. The main aim is to showcase the British Museum’s collection of ethnic textiles and to be a source of inspiration. Lovely illustrations with lots of close-up details.

Recommendation: these books are intended for a general public who are looking for inspiration and basic information. Nice to have on the bookshelf and used for dipping into. The select reading list, English language publications only, is a handy guide for those who wish to go deeper.

Available at: http://www.britishmuseumshoponline.org/invt/cmc25831

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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WHITE, Soux (2015): Jane and Ida: Beer Lace Manufacturers to Royalty, Broadoak: Honeybee Books (self publishing company; www.honeybeebooks.co.uk). ISBN 978-1-910616-19-2, softback, 69pp, footnotes. Price: £5.65.

A booklet with considerable information about a group of lacemakers in Beer, in east Devon (England), some of whom produced part of Queen Victoria’s wedding dress (the wedding took place on the 10th February 1840). The booklet concentrates on Jane Washbourne (née Bidney; 1802-1882) and Aida Allen (née Pike; known as Ida, 1876-1959). Jane was a lace dealer and probably a lace maker as well, and she was responsible for the production of the lace bertha and sleeve frills, the veil and the flounce for Queen Victoria’s wedding dress (as well as the other c. 100 lacemakers who worked for many months to produced the flounce). In contrast, Ida was a lace maker and owner of The Lace Shop, who continued to produce Beer lace well into the early 20th century. Both Jane and Ida produced and sold what is often described as Honiton lace, with individual sprigs made of bobbin lace that were later sewn onto a net ground. Some authors (including White) argue, however, that as the flounces and other items of lace were made in Beer they should be called Beer lace, which used a lace technique associated with the Devonshire village of Honiton. The booklet is not about the history of Beer lace or lace making (an intriguing subject in itself), but about the roles of Jane Washbourne and Aida Allen and their families, with a strong emphasis on the genealogy of the two women.

Recommendation: this booklet is about some of the stories behind Beer lace and as such is well worth reading, since it helps to put the role of lace making in the history of women in a broader context. In particular, the importance of Beer lace for many women when their husbands, who were often quarry men, had no work and how lace  enabled families to survive. The production of the flounce for Queen Victoria’s dress has an important role in the history of Beer and the region, and one that is recalled and talked about in Beer to the present day.

Available from: via print-on-demand distributors, Amazon.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

A wide variety of books have been coming into the TRC over the last two months, so it was decided to have a February book recommendation list rather than wait until March. This group of reviews  includes a number of, literally, heavy books that give the reader the feeling: here is something, a proper book. A feeling that simply cannot be appreciated or reproduced with an ebook.

Several books have been included below that come from Vetty Creations. This is a small publishing house in Australia dedicated to embroidery books. It was set up by Yvette (hence the Vetty) Stanton, who is an experienced embroiderer and teacher. Her books are informative and with well thought out instructions that help the reader carry out various forms of embroidery, especially whitework forms. The TRC hopes to get more of the Stanton/Vetty books in the future.

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ALBRECHTSEN, Nicky (2015). Vintage Mode, Kerkdriel: Librero (this is a Dutch version of Vintage Fashion Complete, published in 2014, by Thames and Hudson, London). ISNB: 978-90-8998-615-3, hardback, pp. 432, fully illustrated with c. 1300 colour and b/w photographs, index. Price: €39,95.

A lovely book, which is covered with a printed reproduction of material from a dress from the 1930s. The book discusses and illustrates women’s garments from the 1920s to the 1980s. It includes a series of chapters dedicated to each decade with a description of the main garment fashions and accessories for women. The strength of this book lies in the way how all aspects are portrayed so there are bags, belts, bridal items, hats, shawls, shoes, spectacles, underwear, as well as a range of knitted items. A complete image is created.

Recommendation: This book can be used for dipping into in order to gain inspiration, but it is also a valuable tool for anyone working with vintage clothing, either as part of a public or private collection, or as the wearer of vintage clothing. It provides details that will help people to get the correct ‘look’ as it is not just about wearing a dress or a skirt, it is about what goes with it, even down to what sort of bras should be worn.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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BECKERT, Sven (2014). Empire of Cotton: A Global History, New York: Alfred A. Knopf, ISBN 10: 0375414142. Hardback, black/white illustrations, pp. 616, Price: €36.95.

This is a well researched, award-winning book with extensive footnotes. The author, a Professor of American History at Harvard University (USA), argues convincingly that cotton production laid the foundation for the modern world. He traces cotton’s origins in Central America, India and Africa, where it was cultivated by subsistence farmers for both domestic use and as a means to pay taxes, to the early 1900s, when 1.5 percent of the world’s population was involved in either the production or manufacture of cotton. Along the way cotton began the industrialization of countries such as the USA, Mexico, Brazil, Egypt, Japan and China; this in turn shifted whole populations from rural areas to urban centres and brokered new relationships between labour, business and government. Cotton was the first international trade commodity; desire for more cotton fueled the Trans-Atlantic slave trade and colonization. Britain’s role in gradually dominating cotton production and manufacture from India was a template; Russia’s desire for its own source of cotton led in the late 1800s to increased Russian control in Central Asia; in the early 1900s Japan did the same in Taiwan, Korea and China.

Recommendation: This is an important history full of exploration, exploitation, greed and invention. It is recommended for economic, social and political historians, and anyone with an interest in the important role textiles  played in globalization and world history.

Shelley Anderson

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HASHAGEN, Joanna and Santina M. LEVEY (2006). Fine and Fashionable: Lace from the Blackborne Collection, The Bowes Museum, County Durham. No ISBN number, instead some people are using ASIN 0954818245. Soft back, fully illustrated in colour, short bibliography, pp. 88, GBP 9.95.

In 2006 descendants of the Victorian lace dealers A. Blackborne and Company of London donated the Blackborne collection of lace to the Bowes Museum. There were over 7000 pieces of lace, dating from the 16th century to the early 20th century, including a 17th century needle lace band for a cloak that may have belonged to King Charles 1 (1600-1649) of England. This is the catalogue of some of the top pieces from the Blackborne’s remaining stock and study collection that went into the exhibition “Fine and Fashionable”, organized by the Bowes Museum from September 2006 to April 2007. The book’s first section is a brief history of the Blackborne Company, and how its founders began the collection in an attempt to re-discover lost patterns and techniques. The second section presents six beautiful laces as art works; while the third section provides more background information on techniques and uses of lace, with specific examples often shown alongside paintings of textiles from the same period.

Recommendation: This beautifully illustrated book will appeal to collectors and makers of lace, and to anyone interested in the social history of lace.

Shelley Anderson

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MEYER-STOLL, CHRISTIANE (2015). Ferdinand Nigg [1865-1949] Gestickte Moderne, Köln: Verlag der Buchhandlung Walther König, Kunstmuseum Liechtenstein. ISBN: 978-3-86335-866-2. Hardback, pp. 407, fully illustrated with colour and b/w photographs, glossary, bibliography. Price: €58.

An exhibition catalogue with a difference. This weighty (literally) tome contains a series of articles about the life and work of the Liechtenstein graphic artist, Ferdinand Nigg (1865-1949). There then follows a seven page catalogue of the items on display. This book is clearly intended to be read elsewhere and not used as the exhibition guide. Ferdinand Nigg was a famous designer in the 1920s and 30s and was very influential in Germany where he spent most of his working life. He was a graphic designer and teacher, but someone with a profound love and understanding of embroidery, especially the graphic nature of the cross stitch. He personally created many items of embroidery, especially those illustrating Biblical scenes. His use of the cross stitch in its many forms was and remains special. Nigg’s embroidery became so well-known that there was even a series of three Christmas postage stamps from Liechtenstein (1979) with depictions of his work.

Recommendation: This book explores the work of Nigg in great detail and provides many insights into his life, creations and especially his embroidery. There are illustrations of examples that are not produced anywhere else. This book is recommended for anyone who is interested in early 20th century graphic design, embroidery from the period and the history of European urban embroidery in general.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM: The 67th Annual Exhibition of Shōsō-in Treasures (two exhibition catalogues, one in Japanese and a smaller version in English). Nara: The Nara National Museum. Soft back, pp. 144 (Japanese version) and pp. 64 (English version). Fully illustrated with colour photographs. The English version also includes a glossary.

The Shōsō-in is literally a treasure house that dates back to the 8th century. The building was and still does store a very wide range of objects that have been donated to the Buddha by members of the Japanese royal family and other. Since the Second World War (1939-1945) there have been a series of annual exhibitions about various aspects of the Shōsō-in contents. This catalogue celebrates the 67th exhibition, which was held in 2015 at the Nara National Museum (Nara lies in southern Kansai region of Japan). The catalogue comes in two parts, the first is the main catalogue (in Japanese) and includes a wide variety of domestic objects, literally from a paintbrush to a table. However, the majority of the items are textile biased and include needles, threads, fragments of decorative cloth (embroidered, printed and woven forms), as well as a few complete garments. The second and much smaller work is an English edition of the main catalogue. The images are much smaller so it is useful to have both books. In particular the exhibition focuses on events that take place on the seventh day of the seventh month (tanabata), when women wish for excellence in the sewing arts. So the exhibition has included brightly coloured threads, large ceremonial needles and so forth.

Recommendation: A must for anyone interested in Japanese textiles and clothing. The inclusion of ‘everyday’ items such as needles and threads helps to show just how important textiles and related skills are within Japanese society. The illustrations are very clear and of a high quality. Because there is a smaller, English, version of the main catalogue these items can be appreciated by a much wider audience.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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RIBEIRO, Aileen and Cally BLACKMAN (2015). A Portrait of Fashion: Six Centuries of Dress at the National Portrait Gallery, London: National Portrait Gallery. ISBN 978 1 85514 556 6. Soft cover, fully illustrated in colour, pp. 288, GBP 24.95.

This lavishly illustrated book looks in detail at the clothing (and accessories such as jewelry and hats) worn in 190 portraits in the collection of Britain’s National Portrait Gallery in London. The paintings (with occasional photographs, newspaper cartoons or sculpture) range in time from the 16th to the 21st centuries; and in subject from lesser known members of the English middle class to more famous members of the aristocracy. The changes in fashion between one century and the next are also well described, as are some of the social implications of the changes. For example, 18th century foreign travellers in Britain remarked on the clean, sturdy dress of British workers and noted it was hard to distinguish, based on dress, between the upper and lower classes; in the 19th century the widespread use of cotton led to improved hygiene, as cotton, unlike silk, velvet or wool, is more easily washed. Male clothing, men as well as boys, is described in equal detail as the clothing of women and girls.

Recommendation: This book will appeal to anyone interested in how clothing reveals age, sex and status. It will especially appeal to fashion historians and to anyone interested in art history or the social history of clothing.

Shelley Anderson

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STANTON, Yvette (2012): Portuguese White work: Bullion Embroidery from Guimarães, Hornsby Westfield: Vetty Creations. ISBN 9780975767757. Soft back, pp. 104, fully illustrated in colour with photographs and diagrams, series of project sheets, index. Price: c. €15 (available from www.vettycreations.com.au).

The book starts with a short history of Guimarães in northern Portugal and this particular type of regional embroidery, with some historical examples. The embroidery is based on a combination of drawn thread work and bullion stitch, which is embroidered in white, although occasionally grey, beige, red blue and black forms or combinations may be found. The embroidery is worked in coton à broder, but perlé is now often substituted. There then comes a series of attractive projects, which have clear, step-by-step illustrations.

Recommendation: A well-researched and illustrated book that will be of use to anyone interested in whitework, embroidery history, European embroidery forms, and to those looking for something new to do.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

***

 STANTON, Yvette (2014): Sardinian Knotted Embroidery: Whitework from Teulada, Hornsby Westfield: Vetty Creations. ISBN 9780975767764. Soft back, pp. 104, 

fully illustrated in colour with photographs and diagrams, series of project sheets, index. Price: c. €15 (available from www.vettycreations.com.au).

As with other Stanton books this one starts with a short history of Teulada in southern Sardinia and the whitework embroidery associated with the town. Teulada embroidery is a form of whitework embroidery. It is locally called Punt ‘e Nù (‘knotted stitches’), which refers to it being a form of counted knot work. The main stitch is coral stitch that is worked in geometric patterns. The designs are reminiscent of Holbein stitch (double running stitch) designs, especially those produced during the Mamluk period in the Eastern Mediterranean. This is not strange as there were and are close connections between the various communities living around the Mediterranean. This form of embroidery was traditionally used to decorate men’s shirts, especially on the collars, cuffs and yokes. Teulada embroidery is normally worked in white, but other pastel colours are also being produced. Following the introduction and information about materials, there is a series of projects of varying degrees of complexity with clear, step-by-step illustrations.

Recommendation: A book that will be of use to anyone interested in whitework, embroidery history in general and especially to those looking for traditional European forms.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

***

VOGELSANG-EASTWOOD, Gillian (2016). Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World, by Bloomsbury, London, 2016. ISBN 9780857853974. Hardback, fully illustrated in colour, bibliography, pp. 688, GBP£150.

This is a comprehensive and meticulously researched book on both modern and historical Arab embroidery. It is beautifully illustrated with 850 images (750 in colour), some of which have never been published before. The 46 essays are grouped into four sections, beginning with background information on designs and colours; hand and machine embroidery; materials and equipment; and foreign influences (such as the introduction of DMC threads in the 19th century) and sources. Trade routes like the Silk Road, and the annual pilgrimage to Mecca, also resulted in new exchanges and designs. The section on archaeological and historical embroideries opens with a discussion of the embroideries in the tomb of Egyptian Pharaoh Tutankhamun (died 1323 BCE) and then moves to embroideries from Nubia, the eastern Mediterranean and Iraq, Lebanon, and from Ottoman, Turkish, Coptic, Byzantine and Arab Sicilian culture.

The most extensive section on regional embroideries, from the 17th century to the present, follows. From Tunisia and Libya, Jordan and Iraq, to Palestine, Kuwait and the Gulf States these chapters offer fascinating details on textiles of all sorts, from construction to markers of identity. The embroideries of ethnic and religious minorities in the region, such as Berbers, Christians, Jews and Kurds, are also included. These chapters are enhanced by the researchers’ talks with local embroiderers and her unprecedented access to important private collections. Lastly there are two glossaries, one on textile terms, the other on national and regional dress terms; appendices on stitches, with illustrations, and a list of museums with N. Africa and Middle Eastern embroidery collections. While embroidery still provides a livelihood for many in the region, conflict and political changes are threats to its continuation. This encyclopaedia is thus both a timely and essential guide to this craft.

Recommendation: for anyone interested in cultural heritage, Middle Eastern cultural heritage, embroidery history, as well as museums and private collectors with Middle Eastern collections.

Shelley Anderson

For an annotated list of publications on textiles and dress, discussed in 2013-2014, please click here.

For an annotated list of publications on textiles and dress, discussed in 2015, please click here

TRC recente aanwinsten en aanbevolen boeken

Er verschijnen heel veel boeken over textiel en kleding, en het TRC wordt vaak gevraagd naar aanbevelingen. Het TRC begint daarom deze maand met het publiceren van boeken die recentelijk zijn opgenomen in de TRC bibliotheek en die van belang zijn voor iedereen die zich interesseert in kleding en textiel. Sommige van deze boeken zijn bedoeld voor een breed publiek, andere zijn meer gespecialiseerd. Niet alle boeken zijn kort daarvoor gepubliceerd; sommige zijn misschien al enkele jaren beschikbaar. Hieronder volgt een eerste lijst, alfabetisch geordend.

TRC new acquisitions and recommended books, December 2013

Egyptian Textiles Museum, by Mohammed Abas Mohammed SELEM, and Somiya Abd AL-KHALEK. Ministry of Culture, Supreme Council of Antiquities, Cairo, 2010. Hardback, fully illustrated in colour, short bibliography, pp. 228, Price: Egyptian pounds, 180 (about €18).

A beautifully illustrated catalogue of many of the textiles on display in the Egyptian Textiles Museum (121 El Muez St., behind Wekalet Sobhy Zakaria, Cairo). The museum is situated in an impressive building originally built by order of Muhammed Ali Pasha in 1828. It was initially used as a charitable educational facility and later became known as the Nahaseen School. The building became the Egyptian Textiles Museum in 2010. The elaborately illustrated catalogue depicts textiles form the Pharaonic period to the early 20th century. Many of the objects depicted in the book are on display in the museum. The collection is one of the best collections of archaeological and historic textiles to be found from this area of the Middle East. The book is well worth looking at and a visit to the museum is recommended.

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Embroidered with White: The 18th century fashion for Dresden lace and other whiteworked accessories, by Heather TOOMER, 2008. Private publication by Heather Toomer Antique Lace. ISBN: 978-0-9542730-2-6. Card cover, fully illustrated with b/w and colour illustrations, patterns for garments, as well as embroidery techniques. Bibliography, glossary, index. Price: £19.75.

An interesting booklet with detailed information about the different types of whitework embroidery that was popular in 18th century Europe. The author discusses the different forms of whitework, how it was produced, who produced it, and how this form of embroidery was used for men and women's clothing.

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Golden Spider Silk, by Simon PEERS, V & A Publishing, London, 2012. ISBN: 978-1851776870. Card cover, bibliography, pp. 48, fully illustrated with b/w and colour illustrations. Price: £5.

Accompanying book to a small exhibition held at the Victoria and Albert Museum about the use of golden thread from a giant spider living on the island of Madagascar. The spiders (Nephila) live in small boxes and produce a silk thread that is threaded through a small hole in the box, wound onto bobbins and then woven into an exotic and very expensive cloth. An intriguing subject.

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Algéroises. Histoire d'un costume méditerranéen, by Leyla BELKAÏD, Édisud. Aix-en-Provence, 1998. ASIN: B00251CU5U. Hardback, bibliography and index, pp. 187. Price: c. €20.

A well-illustrated book with discussions concerning the history and regional variations of Algerian garments for women. There are illustrations depicting the garments of women's clothing from this region of North Africa from the Roman period to the present day. It discusses materials, means of decoration and so forth and then individual garment types, notably chemises, dresses, headgear, veils, rather than, for example, regional variations in costume forms.

***

The Jewish Wardrobe: From the collection of the Israel Museum, by (ed.) Esther JUHASZ, 5 Continents Edition, Jerusalem, 2012. ISBN: 978-8874396023. Card cover, fully illustrated in b/w and colour photographs, pp. 367, bibliography, glossary and index. Price: 245 Israeli shekels, c. €50.

A detailed description and historical discussions about a wide range of men's and women's dress and accessories in the Israel Museum, Jerusalem. The subjects discussed include fashion Jewish dress (the main garment forms from many different countries and groups), religious garments, garments of various stages of life, and finally the dynamics of transition. The latter section includes dress and multiple identity, modernization and the use of garments during and after death. There is also an extensive bibliography and glossary.

***

Manuel de Broderie Marocaine Classique, by Fatima ALAOUI. Private Publication, Sale: no date, but probably 1970s. Card cover, blue and red illustrations, pp. 23, short introduction in Arabic and French.

A booklet with numerous designs for geometric patterns to be worked in double running stitch (also known as Holbein stitch), a form of work associated with various Moroccan cities, notably Fes and Salé. The designs range from simple, repeating patterns to very complex forms.

***

Qasr Ibrim: The Textiles from the Cathedral Cemetery, by Elisabeth CROWFOOT (and Nettie Adams), Egypt Exploration Society Memoir 96, London, 2012. ISNB 978-0856981999. Soft back, illustrated, pp. 56. Price: £35 (about €42).

Elizabeth Crowfoot was a specialist in archaeological and ancient textiles. In 1976 she was invited to join the Egypt Exploration Society's expedition to Qasr Ibrim in southern Egypt. She retired from the Qasr Ibrim project in 1984. Over the decades of excavation work the site produced a wide range of textiles, garments and accessories, dating from the 25th Dynasty to the late Ottoman Period (ending in 1812). In addition there were a number of burials found in the Cathedral cemetery and this publication includes detailed descriptions of the main pieces from this area of the site. Miss Crowfoot had completed the Cathedral text before her death in 2005 and it has been edited for publication by Nettie Adams. This is a specialist book and not really for the general public. It includes a range of details that are of interest to anyone working on the history of Middle Eastern textiles, especially her discussion concerning the various examples of tiraz that were found at Ibrim.

***

Reconstructing Ancient Linen Body Armor. Unravelling the Linothorax mystery, by Gregory S. ALDRETE, Scott BARTELL and Alicia ALDRETE. The Johns Hopkins University Press, Baltimore, 2013. ISBN: 13-978-1421408-19-4. Hardback, with b/w and some colour illustrations, glossary, bibliography, index, pp. 304. Price: US$29.95.

The book is a report on a research project by a team from the University of Wisconsin-Green Bay that started in 2005, into a well-known piece of body armour from the ancient world, the Linothorax, or 'Cuirass of Linen.' This piece of armour, however, had never been studied in detail. The book contains a series of chapters dealing respectively with literary evidence, types of (linen) body armour, the materials used, a report on the reconstruction of the linothorax and on the arrow test methodology, and on the results of arrow tests, wearability tests, and finally on economic and social aspects. The book also contains a database of visual sources for this type of body armour. An interesting book, which sounds dull, but it is not!

***

Renaissance Velvets, by Lisa MONNAS, V&A Publishing, London, 2012. ISBN: 978-185177-656-6. Hardback, fully illustrated in b/w and colour, bibliography, glossary, pp. 159. Price: £35 (about €42).

A catalogue to 50 items from the Victoria and Albert Museum's collection of Renaissance period velvets including complete garments, ecclesiastical vestments and a wide selection of fragments. These European textiles range in date from the second half of the 13th to the 16th century. The book includes a catalogue of mainly Italian pieces, with a discussion of their historical context, equipment needed to produce them, as well as weave analysis details and diagrams. This book will be of interested to those working in the field of medieval and Renaissance period textile and costumes, as well as historians.

***

Threads of Identity: Preserving Palestinian Costume and Heritage, by Widad Kamel KAWAR, Rimal Publications, Nicosia 2011. ISBN: 978-9963-610-41-9. Card cover, fully illustrated in b/w and colour photographs, short glossary and bibliography, pp. 449.

A personal history of 20th century Palestinian clothing through the eyes of the women who made and wore the garments. Many of these women were personal friends of the author, Widad Kawar. She is a famous collector and disseminator of information about Palestinian life and culture. All of the garments and accessories illustrated come from the Widad Kawar collection, which is housed in Amman, Jordan. The combination of personal stories, historical details and high quality illustrations of garments provides a unique insight into a virtually vanished aspect of Middle Eastern life.