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It is noticeable since we moved to our new home on the Boerhaavelaan that we have been increasing our international links and connections! We are getting more and more visitors from all over the world coming to the TRC – just the other day we had a visitor from China wanting to know what we did, and upstairs a visitor from Indonesia looking at part of our Indonesian batik collection. We have also recently had several visits from Iran as well as the USA and Canada, not to mention home-grown visitors from the Netherlands.

Another form of working on an international level, are the number of donations we are given of textiles and garments from friends of the TRC from all over the world. Just the other day, for example, a large (and heavy) box came from Japan with an important collection of over 20 kimono and jackets (haori). These will be coming on-line shortly. But this blog is really about other forms of international co-operation the TRC is actively involved with

Textile Fellowships

Thanks to the generous help of the Gieskes-Strijbis Foundation, Amsterdam, the TRC has a three-year fellowship programme for the study of textiles and dress, based on the TRC Collection. The first fellow, Flora Kovacs Wester, is Hungarian, lives in the Netherlands and researches kasuri, a Japanese resist-dyeing technique. Early this year we announced a second round of fellowships and there were 39 applicants from literally all over the world. We appointed two junior fellows and one senior fellows, who will be working on different aspects of the TRC Collection. We hope to welcome them within a few weeks! These fellowships are certainly causing ripples in the textile world! The third round of fellowships will be announced shortly and we expect even more interest in this fellowship programme.

Outreach

But we are also involved in reaching out to other institutes and groups outside of the Netherlands. Just recently, and upon invitation, my colleague Augusta de Gunzbourg attended a textile conference in Uzbekistan that was organised by UNESCO. A blog about her visit can be downloaded here. Augusta gave a talk about the work of the TRC and was able to discuss with many of the delegates their work and the TRC’s work within the field of knowledge preservation and education, as well as potentially being involved in several international exhibitions on the various textile themes. At the end of October I am attending, also upon invitation, a three-day textile conference being held in Tbilisi, Georgia, which is being organised by the Tbilisi State Academy of Art and the EU group, Erasmus, and I will also be giving a talk about the work of the TRC, and equally importantly, I want to hear what other groups are doing and talk with colleagues from other institutes about how we can work together.

Turkish connections

Thanks to the donation of the Criel Ottoman Turkish and Regional Textile and Dress Collection, the TRC is working hard on building up co-operation with various Turkish groups both here in the Netherlands, and indeed in Turkey itself.  As noted in recent TRC blogs, we have been working with the Turkish community here in Leiden. and especially the Stichting Guney (Leiden). Last week, for example, we had the opening of the ‘Sacred Textiles from Medina and Mecca’ exhibition, in which the Turkish ambassador designate was present as well as the Cultural Attaché and other members of the Turkish Embassy.  Many members of the Leiden Turkish community came to the opening and we are forming a working group to catalogue, photograph and add details to the TRC/Criel collection.

As part of developing, improving the accessibility of the Turkish collection, and making use of it for furfther study, I contacted the Turkish Cultural Foundation (USA), who put me in contact with Prof. Recep Karadag, of DATU – Cultural Heritage Preservation and Natural Dyes Laboratory, Istanbul. Sinced then, we have had various conversations about how we can work together – they are particularly involved with fibre, weave and dye analysis. We have the textiles, they have the laboratory! All being well I shall be going to Istanbul in December to talk personally with Prof. Karadag about what is possible.

Iranian collection

The TRC also has a large Iranian regional dress collection that was made between 1999 and 2003 in Iran by my husband and I. It is regarded as one of the largest collections of regional dress outside of Iran. Just recently we have had visitors and enquiries from various researchers, scholars and makers about using the collection and making it more accessible. An Iranian PhD student may come to Leiden to work on the collection. So as in the case of the Turkish collection, we want people, in Leiden , the rest of the Netherlands, and abroad, to hear about the TRC collection and make use of it. That;s what the collectiopn is for. And yes, all these people looking are also strongly invited to share their insights and knowledge with us (and add it to our ever-growing database).

Dr. Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, Director 

(by Augusta de Gunzbourg, TRC curator and education manager, 25 September 2026). The TRC was invited recently to attend "Atlas Bayrami", the 7th International Traditional Textile Festival, held in Margilan in the Fergana Valley, in the east of Uzbekistan. I attended the festival as TRC's representative. The event celebrated the country's textile traditions, and in particular the traditional silk ikats of this region. This extraordinary invitation was a chance to represent the TRC at an international conference and to better understand a textile history that is still very much alive in the valley and across the country.

The author speaking during the conference.The author speaking during the conference.

"The TRC and the Stichting Güney are proud to present …. " This may sound like a cliché but in this case it is totally true. We were and are proud of the 'Sacred Textiles from Mecca and Medina' mini-exhibition, which was opened last Sunday, 20th September, in the presence of the Turkish ambassador designate, Dr. Burak Akçapar.

We have all been working hard for the last few weeks, writing text boards, organising lists of objects, translating texts into Dutch, and checking proposed programmes for this special event. Augusta de Gunzbourg, our curator, did the design layout before she went to a textile conference in Uzbekistan (a blog will shortly be published about her trip).

One of the reasons behind the mini-exhibition was to raise funds to process and store a very large Ottoman and regional Turkish collection that recently has been donated to the TRC (see previous blogs). The Turkish community here in Leiden are taking a very active part in the project and plans are being developed for exhibitions, workshops, lectures, perhaps even fashion shows!

Fig. 1. Quilt with an appliqué version of a ‘Flower and Berries’ design (1850’s – 1860’s; USA). TRC 2019.2402.Fig. 1. Quilt with an appliqué version of a ‘Flower and Berries’ design (1850’s – 1860’s; USA). TRC 2019.2402.Last weekend the TRC was open to the public as part of the national Open Monumenten Dagen (OMD). We welcomed over 300 visitors who were shown around the building and enjoyed the various exhibitions.

One of the questions that was asked by an American visitor was: did we have any quilts? What she meant was American-style (bed) quilts. Well, we have a range of quilts, plus a selection of quilt patterns, samples and unfinished blocks. More specifically, we have over 100 American quilts in our collection that date from the 1840s to the present day and represent many different forms.

Fig. 2. Dresden Plate quilt (1930s, USA). TRC 2018.2629.Fig. 2. Dresden Plate quilt (1930s, USA). TRC 2018.2629.The TRC houses one of the few public collections of American quilts in this part of Europe, and the blankets are included in the American Quilt Index. Some years ago, to mark this point, the TRC mounted an exhibition about American quilts. We opened the exhibition in February 2020, but alas, very few people could come and see it due to the Covid Crisis.

The TRC collection includes a wide range of forms of American quilts (Figs. 1-3), from practical, Amish items to more decorative, elaborate examples, but we are far from being able to offer a complete picture. We are still looking for early 19th century examples, and a few specific types, such as Baltimore Album quilts, Mormon (LDS) quilts, and modern Art quilts.

We have just had the second Open Monumenten Dagen (OMD) day (Sunday, 13 September), which was from 10.00 until 17.00 and we are all very, very tired! I am glad that the OMD is only once a year, but it is well worth it for getting people interested in what the TRC is doing and why.

Yesterday we had 111 visitors and today 214 people came to see Boerhaavelaan 6 (B6), giving a total of 325 over the weekend. Again there were people who live on the street or nearby, who were simply curious about the building and the family who had lived there for over 100 years. Many people came for the architectural history of the building, while others came for the textiles and to see what the TRC is and is doing.

There were five TRC volunteers present and we all had a chance to talk with visitors, answer questions, and help with the shop, so plenty of opportunities to tell everyone about what we are doing and why. In addition we were able to talk with teachers from here in Leiden, people from Leiden Council, as well as others working with local commercial groups. In other words, a great opportunity for people to see the TRC in action and its potential as a local and international centre for textile and dress studies.

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Contact

Boerhaavelaan 6
2334 EN Leiden.
Tel. +31 (0)71 5134144 (kantooruren)  
office@trcleiden.org

Het TRC is elke dag geopend tussen 10.00 en 15.00 uur.

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Bankrekening

NL39 INGB 0002 9823 59, t.a.v. Stichting Textile Research Centre.

Financiële giften

Het TRC is afhankelijk van project-financiering en privé-donaties. Al ons werk wordt verricht door vrijwilligers. Ter ondersteuning van de vele activiteiten van het TRC vragen wij U daarom om financiële steun:

Giften kunt U overmaken op bankrekeningnummer (IBAN) NL39 INGB 000 298 2359, t.n.v. Stichting Textile Research Centre. BIC code is: INGBNL2A

U kunt ook, heel simpel, indien u een iDEAL app heeft, de iDEAL-knop hieronder gebruiken en door een bepaald bedrag in te vullen: 
 

 

 

Omdat het TRC officieel is erkend als een Algemeen Nut Beogende Instelling (ANBI), en daarbij ook nog als een Culturele Instelling, zijn particuliere giften voor 125% aftrekbaar van de belasting, en voor bedrijven zelfs voor 150%. Voor meer informatie, klik hier.