Paper embroidery pattern for a woman's kebaya from the Peranakan Chinese, late 20th century (TRC 2020.4874.037).In the collection of the Textile Research Centre (TRC) in Leiden, there is a box filled with 127 paper embroidery patterns for the Nyonya kebaya, a traditional dress for the women of the Peranakan Chinese communities of Singapore and Malaysia (TRC 2020.4874). The embroidery patterns show an amazing variety of designs. Most are floral, with colourful flowers set in curling leafy tendrils, but there are also fans, umbrellas, and many animals including peacocks, phoenixes, dragons and goldfish. On one pattern there are even Spanish flamenco dancers and bullfighters, twirling amidst musical notes.
The Peranakan Chinese (or Baba Nyonya as they are also known) are a community of mixed ethnic roots and identities. Their ancestors were Ming Dynasty Chinese traders who settled with Malay wives and began a family. These families maintained aspects of both Chinese and Malay culture, and later through trading activities also formed strong ties with the European colonisers. The variety of the patterns show the three different cultural influences with an impact on the community: Chinese, Malaysian and European. There are still communities of Peranakan Chinese in Singapore, and in Melaka and Penang in Malaysia.
Chinese woman wearing a kebaya blouse, Penang, Malaysia (TRC 2020.4876).The Nyonya kebaya is a long-sleeved blouse made of fine, translucent voile, a fabric imported from Europe. The pattern would have been placed underneath this thin fabric and a sharp pencil was used to trace the pattern onto it. The artisan would then use a sewing machine to embroider over the traced pattern. The finished kebaya blouse would be fastened in the front with a kerongsang: a set of three golden brooches joined together with a gold chain. The blouse would be paired with a batik sarong in a matching colour to the kebaya. The look would be completed with a pair of intricately beaded slippers. Today, Peranakan Chinese women still wear the full Nyonya kebaya ensemble at formal events or special occasions, such as weddings and festival days.
From the rubber stamp on one of the pieces, we know that these paper embroidery patterns came from a tailoring institute for girls in Penang, Malaysia. It seems likely that some are example patterns and some are students' work. Some patterns include annotations in English, Malay or Chinese that relate to colour or embroidery instructions. Some of the embroidery patterns appear to have been used, since they are drawn in pen with pencil lines also visible over the top. Each variation in pattern and each detail tell a little story, making this box of patterns a real treasure trove of information.
Tchi Ridley, 2 February 2021
