Detail of an embroidered pair of trousers from Guatemala (2021.1971).A few days ago a box arrived from Charles and Carolyn Knobler, Los Angeles, and it was opened with great anticipation, because for the last three years they have been sending a diverse range of Guatemalan and Mexican garments to the TRC.
Each garment comes with its own label that often includes details of where it comes from, the local name, dates, and in some cases with information on what sort of occasion it would have been used, namely all the things a curator loves to know about.
And this new box was not disappointing! There are some lovely huipil (tops) for women worked in various techniques, including woven (with supplementary wefts) and embroidered (both hand and machine) forms. Many of these garments are made from cloth woven on back strap looms. The plan is to display about one hundred of these and similar items in a TRC Gallery exhibition about textiles and garments from Guatemala in the autumn of 2022.
But I have to admit, one of my favourite items in this latest box is a pair of men’s trousers (TRC 2021.1971) from Santiago Atitlán in southern Guatemala. The trousers are made from two lengths of white cloth with dark red stripes.
The lengths are sewn together to create the waist and leg sections. The lower parts of the trouser legs are heavily embroidered with rows of stylised birds of various types in a wide range of contrasting, vibrant colours using satin stitch, Romanian stitch and stem stitch. I thought you might enjoy detailed images of the birds, what they look like, how they were made, etc.
What a difference from men’s trousers that are worn here in the Netherlands, even in the summer time! Can I please make a plea to Dutch men to wear more colour and embroidery?
Detail of an embroidered huipil from Guatemala (TRC 2021.1970).An embroidered women's top (huipil)
In addition to the trousers, there is a women’s top (huipil; TRC 2021.1970) from the same area of Guatemala and this garment is also embroidered with rows of birds. It is made from lengths of white cloth with multicoloured stripes in both the warp and weft, as well as being embroidered around the neck opening with rows of colourful, stylised birds worked in satin stitch, Romanian stitch, long stem stitch as well as running stitch.
Gillian Vogelsang, Director TRC, 21 June 2021.
