Photograph of the astronomer, Henrietta Swan Leavitt (1868-1921), with a Brussels duchess lace collar.Since writing about the meeting of lace makers at the TRC on the 23th October (read here) we have had several lace related ‘events’.

These include an email from America with a photographic portrait of a late 19th century woman who is wearing a large lace collar. According to the TRC lace specialist, Olga Iermomina, the collar was made from (Brussels) duchess bobbin lace. There are several, similar examples of lace in the TRC Collection, such as TRC 2007.0673, TRC 2007.0845; TRC 2015.0287, and TRC 2015.0288.

In addition, there was the offer of three lace collections. One will be brought to the TRC in a few weeks time and consists of general samples, equipment and books, the others will be donated later and mainly consist of equipment, lace samples and examples of different types of Dutch lace caps. Lots of potentially interesting items!

Detail of a silk sash with Duchesse (bobbin) lace at the ends, Belgium (TRC 2007.0845).

For the last few years the TRC has been slowly building up a collection of lace forms and equipment, such as lace bobbins and lace pillows, as well as items of clothing made out of lace. We currently have over 2000 lace related items, which includes many items in the general collection as well as the more specific, lace reference collections.

Sample of Duchess bobbin lace, 1920s (TRC 2015.0287).

So what does the TRC want to do in the long run with all this lace and related items? We have two ‘routes’. Firstly, various items are needed to support a series of lace classes as part of providing artisan lessons at the TRC and for this we need equipment, patterns and books. Secondly, we are also a knowledge centre for techniques and have an international-level collection with a wide variety of textile types from throughout the world.

Detail of a shawl with Brussels lace. It once belonged to Queen Anna Paulowna (1795-1865), wife of King Willem II of The Netherlands, and a daughter of the Russian Czar Paul I (TRC 2014.0831).

As part of the main collection we want to expand on the five basic lace reference collections that we have set up, namely:

• Named samples of the basic types of lace, which will be used for identification purposes, including the many types of bobbin, needle and looped forms (the latter include tatted, crocheted, knitted and knotted forms).
• Different types of pillows, bobbins, pins, hooks, shuttles, rings, etc, required for making various types of lace.
• A range of lace patterns
• A range of uses for lace, such as collars, cuffs, doilies, etc.
• A collection of machine lace samples to show the difference between hand and machine forms, as well as the developments of the machine forms (this is helpful in dating items)

Board with a group of lace bobbins from various countries (TRC 2007.0494).As part of this work we are also making a collection of lace types that were used for making the very diverse forms of lace caps worn in various parts of the Netherlands. This week, for example, will see the arrival of samples of all the main types of lace associated with Rijnland lace caps. These include various types of Rijsselse lace (point de Lille), ‘s Gravenmoer lace (a torchon lace) and Lier lace (tambour embroidered net).

There will also be various examples of typical lace patterns associated with the caps such as gebloemde kant (flower lace), bloempot kant (lit. Flower pot lace, i.e. flowers in ornate vases ) and lyre lace with motifs similar to the musical instrument. These samples will be on display in February 2022 as part of an exhibition of lace caps from the Leiden (Rijnland) region.

Lace pillow with bobbins and sample of torchon lace, Belgium (TRC 2012.0009).In addition to the Rijnland exhibition, we have plans for a series of workshops and courses on lace identification, looking at specific types of lace techniques, as well as one on the difference between hand and machine made laces (it is not not always easy to spot the difference!).

The latter subject has also already led to an online exhibition on the same theme. Another, relevant digital lace exhibition is about silk lace from Malta. More exhibitions are planned. We are also planning a course on the making of oya, also known as Turkish lace.

All in all, lots to think about and to organise - Lace in Leiden is becoming a reality!

Gillian Vogelsang, 2 November 2021