Friday, 17 March, I participated in a study day at the TRC in Leiden about identifying the main types of velvet. Below I want to describe what we did during the day and some of the things we learned about.
TRC study day 'What is velvet?', 17 March 2023. Photograph by the author.
We started in the morning with a do-it-yourself exercise: weaving velvet! This was done in order to understand the basic principles of this type of cloth. We were actually weaving a closely related form, namely velveteen, rather than velvet. What is the difference? Well, velveteen has loops worked in the weft, while 'real' velvet has ‘warp’ loops.
The tools and materials with which we started the day. Photograph by the author.
We started by warping up a frame with a cotton thread and weaving six rows of tabby weave. Then the first step involved making rows of loops around small, wooden sticks (instead of the much finer metal rods used by professional velvet weavers). Later these loops were left either cut or uncut.
Starting to cut certain loops, while leaving others uncut. Photograph by the author.We tried out different techniques, such as a combination of loops and voided areas (no loops present), the use of a double thread for making loops and the use of double rods to make extra-long loops to create a ‘plush’ velvet, and various combinations of these effects. In doing so we used cotton and acrylic yarns, but velvet can be made in silk, wool, linen, mohair or cotton, in fact in just about anything!
Some people argue that the origins of velvet lie in Northern Italy around 1100, from which it moved to the main centres of European velvet, weaving notably France and to a lesser extent Spain. There is another theory that sets the origins of velvet in (Ottoman) Turkey around the same time, but there are no examples of velvet from this area and period to prove this point. Other people have suggested that velvet is Persian in origin, but again, we have no early examples. Basically, at present we do not know enough about the range and types of early velvets to be certain where it originated.
A collection of velvets. Photograph by the author.After the break we started identifying different types of velvet. We were provided with small square-cut pieces of fabric that we investigated by holding it to the light (being able to see through the cloth is an indication of a poorer quality, unless it is specifically designed to be semi-transparent, such as chiffon velvet and devoré velvet – see below.
We examined the samples at both sides of the cloth, looking at the sample closely to find out whether a pattern was embossed on it with a block, plate or roller or whether the pattern was formed by cut and uncut loops (a type of velvet known as ciselé).
With respect to this form of velvet the loops do not fall in the same direction, which gives a different colour effect depending on how the light falls on it.
A few of the samples were imitation velvets with a chenille thread woven into it. We also saw and felt some flannel-style cloth with a raised nap that is sometimes used to imitate velvet.
One piece that I found particularly beautiful was a sample of Utrecht velvet that is made from mohair (goat) and dates to the 1930s. As a sideline, since the 16th century Leiden was known for its production of mohair textiles!
Sample of velvet with a screen printed design, using gold paint. France, 2018 (TRC 2018.2894).The last part of the study day was sheer enjoyment as I could see for the second time the reference collection of velvets held at the TRC (see also the TRC online exhibition VELVET).
Last year I went to the TRC to ask Gillian’s advice on the determination of archaeological velvet finds which, together with my colleague Marijn Stolk, we are investigating as part of our research project Textiles from Dutch Soils. To know more about this project check our Instagram account. To know more about our visit to the TRC and the determination of the archaeological velvets, check here. A new study day is planned for
During the study day Gillian showed us about fifty pieces of velvets from the TRC Collection, which date from about 1400 to the 20th century. We were able to closely look at many of the pieces to determine whether the velvet was cut, uncut, had voided areas, was embossed or printed, etc. We also looked for plain, twill and/or satin grounds.
Example of modern embossed velvet, 2010, made for the Dutch parliament (TRC 2018.2514).Some velvets of the 1920s/30s were devoré, which means the voided areas are burned out by a caustic solution which dissolves areas of the pile. Another interesting method that was already in existing by the 18th century is flock. This is were suitable fibres are cut very, very finely and then are glued onto a cloth ground in the required pattern. In the 18th century they would use animal glue for this. In this 1930 example (image 7) the black spots are flock.
Another velvet that was very pretty is an ombré form with stripes in it. There were so many examples and they were all so beautiful that I cannot discuss them all, but I warmly recommend this study day to anyone interested in fabrics!
Martine Teunissen (MA), 24 March 2023
PS: If there are enough people interested, the TRC is willing to repeat this study day on velvet on Friday 15th September. Please let us know asap if you would like to attend.
