Detail of TRC 2024.2190.(5 August 2024) Among the textiles recently given to the TRC by Hélène van Spaendonck, Belgium, there is a large patchwork cloth (TRC 2024.2190) from India that is made up of numerous pieces of Banjara embroidery.
This type of Indian patchwork is often dyed by dealers, and others, in a dull brown, dark grey, black or a red colour, which makes it virtually impossible to see the original colours or patterns. Fortunately this cloth has not been subjected to this undignified treatment.
Patchwork of various squares and rectangles of (mainly) Banjara embroidery with a wide variety of repeating, geometric patterns in various colours. India, 20th century (TRC 2024.2190).
Special attention is being paid to this particular example of Banjara work, as it includes many different patterns, combinations of motifs, as well as colours. There are, in fact, about 100 different pieces with a wide range of patterns. It also includes some duplicates and individual lengths of embroidery that had been cut up and used in different places within the patchwork.
Detail of TRC 2024.2190.The Banjaras
The Banjaras (also known as the Lombanis, Lambadis, Wanjaras), are a semi-nomadic people who live in the western parts of India. Historically they have undertaken annual migrations with their families, herds and trade goods from central to southwestern India.
It should be noted, however, that modern methods of transportation have made this form of life virtually redundant and other ways of making a living, including commercial embroidery by women, are being developed.
Detail of TRC 2024.2190.Banjara women are well-known for their embroidered garments, including backless blouses called kanchali, a full, gathered skirt (ghagra, phetia) and large head and body coverings (chhatiya) (TRC 2017.0397a-c). In addition, a range of personal and home furnishings are embroidered, including bags, pouches and purses. Ther are also pot rings (TRC 2013.0026), which are balanced on women’s heads when carrying a large pot, and there are curtains, covers, as well as animal trappings, such as forehead panels for oxen (TRC 2018.2605).
Detail of TRC 2024.2190.Banjara embroidery
Banjara embroidery is discussed in some detail in the recently published Vol. III of the World Encyclopedia of Embroidery (London: Bloomsbury 2021, pp. 335-342), published under the aegis of the TRC. It is normally worked on an even, plain (tabby) weave cotton cloth, which is worked with cotton threads in a variety of colours. The main stitches include running stitches of various types, including evenly spaced, small running stitches called doranaaki, as well as chain stitch (vele), herringbone stitch, bargello stitch, diamond stitch (nakra), long and short stitch, darning stitch and cross stitch.
Detail of TRC 2024.2190.The embroidery is tensioned in the hand rather than on a frame, and as a result, the embroidery sometimes has a slightly wavy appearance.
Banjara patterns are based on counted thread work using a wide variety of repeating geometric motifs in three or four colours, and are known for their use of various combinations of yellow, orange, red and black. Figurative motifs, such as humans, flowers, birds and animals, are seldom used.
Detail of TRC 2024.2190.In addition, Banjara embroideries are often embellished with applied items such as beads, cowrie shells, coins, tassels, pompoms, as well as mirrors (shisha) of varying sizes and shapes. Sometimes the edge around the piece of glass is worked in embroidery, sometimes they are further decorated with buttons or shells.
The mirrors are regarded as amulets that turn the evil eye away. Iin contrast, cowrie shells are regarded as a symbol of prosperity.
Detail of TRC 2024.2190.Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, Director TRC.
