Next to a series of 17th century Portuguese cross stitch charts that will appear in the forthcoming volume of the Encyclopedia of Embroidery (Scandinavia and Western Europe; Bloomsbury 2021/2022) and that were discussed in a separate blog, we will also be using a German pattern book that was published in about 1742.
The book was printed in Nuremburg and contains a range of designs that were regarded as suitable for knitting, weaving and embroidery. In particular the patterns could be used for cross stitch and padded satin stitch.
The book was produced by Margaretha Helm (neé Mainberger, 1659-1742), who was a teacher of embroidery. She co-operated with a publisher and copperplate engraver called Christoph Weigel the Younger (1702-1777) on various projects, including the publication of a book entitled Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck-Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil (“Further Delights of the Art and Industry of the Practising Needle and Loom; or the Newly Invented Sewing and Embroidery Book, Another Part”).
The book was produced in three volumes and it is the second volume that is of special interest for embroidery. Two designs that are suitable for cross stitch work are given below. The original patterns were printed in black ink and there is no indication of the type of ground, yarn or colours that ‘should’ be used.
A complete version of this book is available at the Victoria and Albert Museum online collection site (https://collections.vam.ac.uk/ ). Type in the name: Margaretha Helm. You can use the charts below by clicking on the illustration, which will lead you to a PDF-file, free to use. Success!
Gillian Vogelsang, 24th August 2020
Two charts for cross stitch designs (c. 1740, Germany; Margaretha Helm, 'Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck-Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil', 1742, based on Victoria and Albert Museum, London, V&A E.1133-1933; charts by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood).
