by Marije Boerma, TRC Volunteer and specialist in African textiles and garments, 13 August 2024

Every day at the TRC may lead to something remarkable. All textiles and garments have stories to tell, and at times some of them really demand your attention. This was the case for the Donso hunting tunic that I encountered while checking on the state of the collection boxes.

Bambara Donso's tunic (donsodloki), Mali, late 20th century (TRC 2018.3397).

Most of the Donso (or dozo/donzo) belong to the Mandé ethno-linguistic ethnic group in today’s western Africa (Senegal, Mali, Guinea, Burkina Faso, and Ivory Coast). They form a professional group of  hunters who play a pivotal role in Mandé communities, not only as expert hunters, but also as advisors, diviners, and providers of medicines. The Mandé feel that the Donso's deep connection with the environment grants them knowledge that transcends hunting. To be a Donso means to be part of a fraternity that keeps and passes down essential knowledge and contributes to the well-being of a community.

Back of a Bambara Donso's tunic (donsodloki), Mali, late 20th century (TRC 2018.3397).

The Donso shirt, or donsodloki, crafted by the hunters themselves from local cotton, tells a story of transformation. The shirt’s colour deepens to a rich red with dust from countless hunts, offering natural camouflage in the savanna. Thickly woven and sturdy, the tunic’s weight shields hunters from thorny bushes and scorpion stings, while its wide design ensures cool airflow. Large pockets carry small game, such as rabbits and hedgehogs, and loops on the left side secure cartridges for the hunter’s shotgun. Adorned with small leather pouches, or talismans, the donsodloki also holds medicines, herbs, and spiritual amulets.

The TRC’s collection includes a remarkable donsodloki from the Bambara group in Mali, an essentially Mandé community (TRC 2018.3397a); there is also a Donso hunter's cap (TRC 2018.3397b).

The Mandé were part of the grand Mali Empire from the 13th to the 17th century, with hunters reputedly scouting and expanding the empire’s territories. Their bravery and environmental mastery earned them heroic status.

Donso hunter's cap, Mali, late 20th century (TRC 2018.3398).The Donso’s life is fraught with peril, making their achievements worthy of celebration and song. As protectors, providers, and guides, they are honoured in ceremonies where musicians, sometimes fellow Donso known as donsojeli, praise their feats. These musicians are the keepers of the hunters’ legacies, passing down tales of valour and wisdom through captivating performances. Some hunters also have two donsodloki. One that is kept for the hunt, and the other for celebrations. Considering the large number of talismans on the TRC’s donsodloki, it is possible that this donsodloki was used for celebrations rather than for hunting.

Becoming a Donso involves an initiatory journey known as donsoya, open to all men regardless of their class and background. This brotherhood of hunters, known as donsoton, forms multiple fraternities across rural areas. The initiation process is led by a master Donso hunter, and involves years of progressively filtering valuable and secretive knowledge to the trainee. The donsodloki is gradually filled with talismans, as their knowledge, skills and experiences progress.

The TRC’s Donso shirt features striking animal horns and, less visibly, tufts of animal hair. Each talisman carries unique meanings—some protect the hunter from animals, others enhance hunting success, and many ward off sorcery. The hunter must navigate his environment, avoiding animals with malevolent spirits. These protective charms safeguard the hunter from malicious entities, human and non-human alike. It is also thought, although not confirmed, that the mirrors work in the same fashion, as protective talismans.

Please note that the names and definitions I use may vary according to their communities. If you are interested in learning more about the Donso, please consider watching the documentary linked below and/or visit the page of visual anthropologist, Lorenzo Ferrarini, who spent time training as a Donso in Burkina Faso.

• Sébastien Bariller, Donsoya, the way of the hunter, 2011.
• Lorenzo Ferrarini, The Shirt of the Donso Hunters: Materiality and power between concealment and visual display, 2019. African Studies Review, Volume 62, 1.
• Patrick R. McNaughton, The Shirts that Mandé Hunters Wear, 1982. African Arts, Volume 15, 3.