The TRC Collection is growing in depth and breadth and is attracting more and more people and groups.
Christina de Korte, TRC intern, talking with a team from the textile printing firm of Vlisco visiting the TRC, Tuesday 3 December 2024. Photograph by TRC.
Yesterday, for example, we had a visit by a design group from the famous Dutch textile printing company of Vlisco, which is particularly known for the production of “wax hollandais”. This is a form of printed cloth that was developed by the firm in Helmond, the Netherlands, over 160 years ago and which is geared to West and Central African tastes.
Length of cloth with an overall design of prancing dark red and black horses on a yellow ground with black Y-shapes scattered on it. There are several selvedge texts that state: "VERITABLE WAX HOLLANDAIS VLISCO", "GUARANTEED DUTCH WAX VLISCO" and "53500". The Netherlands, 2022 (TRC 2022.2262).
Over the years, we have included Vlisco textiles in various exhibitions at the TRC, including one in 2022 about Asian, African and European textile links. So it was really interesting to talk to people who are actively producing the latest Vlisco textiles.
Length of cloth with an abstract design of lines and blocks in lime green, red, pink, dark blue and turquoise. There is a selvedge text that states: "GUARANTEED DUTCH JAVA PRINT 5216a. VLISCO". The Netherlands, 2022 (TRC 2022.2267).
The group that came to the TRC was from the company's design department. They were having a busman's holiday to see textiles in Leiden. Their next port-of-call, after the TRC, was the Japan Museum Sieboldhuis to see their current kimono exhibition.
Single kanga with a central design, in black, blue and lilac. The design is based on a Vlisco cloth called the Cigar Label (actually based on a late 19th century label around a cigar). Kenya, 2010 (TRC 2013.0131).They came at 10.00 and stayed for three hours, and at first we talked about the TRC as an international centre for textile knowledge, techniques and inspiration. In particular, we discussed how the TRC uses the collection, exhibitions, courses, workshops, etc., to stress the importance of textiles and how related knowledge and skills have been and remain important to all societies throughout the world.
There were also discussions about the concept of Dress, being a silent language that everyone speaks, but also how textiles are regarded by some as being unimportant (huh?) and purely female (the men in the audience did not agree!).
The group was then split up into two. One group went around the TRC’s current exhibition about shisha embroidery from India, Pakistan and Afghanistan, while the other had a general tour of the TRC depot where c. 49,000 textiles, garments and accessories are housed. Not surprisingly there were many questions! Afterwards the groups swapped.
There was then an opportunity for the two groups to come together and then various smaller groups went into the depot again (under supervision) to open specific storage boxes.
West African style top (dashiki). The garment is made from two lengths of Vlisco cloth that is especially printed for dashiki. The design is based on a mid-19th century Ethiopian form. The Netherlands, 2022 (TRC 2022.2298).Not surprisingly, the African textile boxes were very popular, but also a newly acquired folder with numerous examples of Cambodian silk ikats attracted the visitors' attention, due to their patterns and colour combinations.
And then there were the American printed feed sacks and their history. These sacks provided sustainable cotton cloth for thousands of people during the Great Depression of the 1930s and later.
In addition, some 14th century resist dyed textiles produced in India for the East African, Egyptian and Mediterranean markets were displayed and discussed. This was of course an interesting group of objects for Vlisco designers to see, as they are also involved in the African textile market.
Length of cloth with an allover pattern of hens, cockerels, chicks and eggs. There are selvedge texts that state: "VERITABLE WAX HOLLANDAIS VLISCO" and "H628"., as well as printed Vlisco labels stuck on the cloth. The Netherlands, 2022 (TRC 2022.2365).Two boxes that were opened included Vlisco textiles and 'fake' Vliscos. It was interesting to hear them discuss which pieces were designed by so-and-so, while those by so-and-so.
We asked whether we could send a list of ‘our’ Vlisco pieces to the company to obtain more information about these pieces in order to add the dates and names of the designers to the TRC Collection database.
In addition, we discussed various means by which the TRC and Vlisco can work together. More about this in due course! One possibility is that we can have a group visit to Vlisco to see their production techniques and their new, archival storage facilities which houses hundreds of Vlisco textiles. Inspiration for us!
Visits of commercial groups to the TRC
More and more commercial groups are getting interested in the potential of the TRC and in particular the TRC Collection as a source of inspiration, knowledge and skills. Group visits can be arranged, as well as private study days for individuals or small groups to look at specific items in the TRC Collection.
Please note, however, that these days need to be booked in advance and a charge is made.
Length of cloth with an overall design of elongated diamonds in dark red, yellow, blue and white with star bursts in the same colours. These alternate with rows of stylised floral motifs in dark red, all of which are worked on a dark blue ground. There are selvedge texts that state: "VERITABLE WAX HOLLANDAIS VLISCO" and "14/1178". The Netherlands, 2022 (TRC 2022.2258).
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, Director, 4 December 2024
