Portrait of Jane Austen, wearing a chemisette, from the memoir by J. E. Austen-Leigh (1871), based on a sketch by Cassandra Austen.In an earlier TRC blog, attention focussed on a 19th century, Western urban garment, namely a pair of detachable sleeves known as engageantes. The blog was written because there are various mid-19h century examples in the TRC collection.
Thanks to a donation of a large collection of needlework and related garments by the Naaldkunst Museum, Winschoten, in October 2023, the TRC now has several examples of another, even more intrguing garment from the mid-19th century, namely chemisettes.
But what exactly is a chemisette? According to the Concise Oxford English Dictionary, since 1807 a chemisette is regarded as: … (1) “a bodice, more or less like the upper part of a chemise”, and (2) “an article, usually of lace or muslin, made to fill in the open front of a woman’s dress”.
The word chemisette is the diminutive of the Old French (and hence Middle English) word, chemise, which in its turn comes from the late Latin camisia, meaning a shirt or nightgown (compare also Arabic qamiz).
More specifically, the (English) term chemisette refers to a garment that has the appearance of the front, back and neckline of a blouse or shirt, but without side sections. It was worn underneath a garment that was open at the front, but it added little bulk to the complete outfit.
Fashion print depicting a variety of bonnets, shawls, bodices as well as under sleeves (TRC 2020.3431).
Sometimes women would weaar a chemisette and matching engageantes. These items also meant that a dress could be worn in various manners by simply changing the chemisette and/or the sleeves. It also helped to cut down on the laundry! The replaceable collars and cuffs of men's shirt, and a bibs or dickey, had the same function. Chemisettes were especially popular from about the 1790s to the 1860s and then they started to vanish, as women’s fashion changed.
A famous wearer of chemisettes was the English writer, Jane Austen (1775-1817), who is depicted wearing a full, gathered version in a portrait by her nephew, James Austen-Leigh, based on a sketch by Cassandra Austen (1773-1845) the sister of Jane Austen.
A white chemisette decorated with lace, embroidered bands and pin tucks. Europe, mid-19th century (TRC 2024.2497).
Line drawing of TRC 2024.2497, by Martin Hense.
A white chemisette decorated with Brussels appliqué lace (on net, tulle). Europe, mid-19th century (TRC 2024.2498).
Line drawing of TRC 2024 2498, by Martin Hense.
Some examples of chemisettes
Chemisettes were made of fine cotton, linen or silk and were often decorated with lace, embroidery, and/or tucks of various widths. As noted above, they were usually made of a front and back section sewn together at the shoulders. They might be fastened down the front with buttons, hooks and eyes, and along the lower hem with ties of various types.
A Dutch chemisette from the early 1940s (TRC 2020.2614).
Line drawing of TRC 2020 2614, by Martin Hense.
The first one (TRC 2024.0050) appears to have been made from a very fine, white cotton and has a boat-shaped neck opening decorated with bobbin lace. It has no opening down the front or back as the neckline is very broad.
A second form (TRC 2024.2497) is made of plain weave, white linen and is decorated with bobbin lace and embroidery down the front, as well as narrow pin tucks. The garment has a front opening that is fastened down the front with tiny linen covered buttons.
The third chemisette (TRC 2024.2498) is also made of plain weave, white linen and is open down the front, but there are no buttons down the front. Instead it was kept in place at the waist by a long cloth tie.
Front and back of an off-white chemisette. The Netherlands, 1930s-1940s (TRC 2023.1530).
Line drawing of TRC 2023 1530, by Martin Hense.
It is worth noting that during the Second World War (1939-1945), women in the Netherlands and elsewhere started to wear chemisettes as a way of being fashionably dressed while using a minimum amount of cloth.
There are two examples from the war period in the TRC Collection (TRC 2020.2614 and TRC 2023.1530). As we enter the age of sustainability I wonder if we will also see the return of the chemisette as well!
P.S. Confusingly, while doing research for this blog I found that some modern fashion designers are now calling a man’s shirt with short sleeves a chemisette! Will this be a new, long term trend and indicate a fundamental change in how the word is used?
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, Director, 8 December 2024
