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Fig. 1. Ukrainian ghillie suit or kikimora (TRC 2025.1840a).A yeti arrived at the TRC the other day… well not an actual yeti, but something similar, and the potential likeness was commented by several people. Actually what we have been given is a ghillie suit (Fig. 1; TRC 2025.1840a) known locally in Ukraine as a kikimora and with it came an intriguing story.

Ghillie suits

But let's start at the beginning, what exactly is a ghillie suit? Basically it is a long, hooded garment used by various groups, including snipers, watchers, trackers, natural life photographers etc., as a form of camouflage.

The word ghillie derives from the Scottish Gaelic word gille, meaning a boy or man who worked as an outdoor servant, such as a gamekeeper or a tracker on one of the remote Scottish estates, where they are in charge of the deer, other animals, birds and fish. It was not uncommon for them to wear tweed clothing that blended into the heather and wooded countryside.

(Leiden, 15 Nov. 2025) In this blog I take a look at some spectacles from the late 19th to mid-20th century. I myself, like many others, wear glasses on a daily basis, yet after looking at the wide variety of styles and types of glasses in the TRC collection (very much part of 'dress'), I realised how little I know of the development of this accessory over the centuries. So I want to take you along on my brief dive into the history of some types of glasses.

Fig. 1. Pair of spectacles, 1920s, The Netherlands (TRC 2022.3091b).

The first load of more than 400 boxes being moved from Hogewoerd 164 to temporary storage, 7 November 2025.(Leiden, 9 Nov. 2025) It's been quite a time at the TRC. A few weeks ago we heard about the discovery of (more) asbestos in various parts of the TRC’s new home at the Boerhaavelaan (known to us as B6). We are not allowed into the whole of the building and garden for all of November, while the asbestos is being removed.

An understandable, but frustrating ban, which has caused problems with respect to the move from Hogewoerd to B6, as well as building and painting requirements in the new building. Not to mention the fact we were supposed to be out of our current building by the end of December.

Fortunately, the owner of the Hogewoerd building has just said we can stay there until mid-January, which will make a considerable difference. All being well (fingers and toes crossed) the work on the internal needs of our new home will start on the 5th December and we can officially move in by mid-January.

Tetouan kaftan, displayed in the Bab Oqla Museum, Tetouan.(Leiden, 5 Nov. 2025) A current highlight from the TRC Collection (TRC 2023.0531)) is this Moroccan kaftan, dating from the late 19th or early 20th century. It is made out of Syrian satin silk and beautifully embroidered with gold and silver threads.

This type of kaftan used to be worn by women in the Tétouan region (northeastern Morocco) and is thus often referred to as a “Tétouan kaftan” (Caftan de Tétouan).

This style, especially with its large sleeves, is rarely worn by younger generations. It may originally have been worn together with other items of clothing, such as an embroidered bolero that was cinched at the waist with a belt.

(Leiden, 2 Nov. 2025) For the last year or so I have been muttering about having a textile garden at the TRC’s new home on the Boerhaavelaan (B6), Leiden. This is not a new idea and various museums, botanical gardens and local projects throughout Europe have set up dye plant gardens, such as that at the Palazzo Madama (Turin, Italy), Botanical Gardens, Cambridge, England , as well as the Amsterdam Colour Gardens. The main thing that was needed was a suitable garden and B6 gives us that.

Boerhaavelaan 6, from the garden.However, we do not just want a 'mere' dye garden, instead we want to extend it to cover the world of textiles, including fibres, dyes and related items such as seeds used for decoration or nuts used for buttons. Not all the plants can easily be grown in Leiden (some require desert conditions, which rainy Leiden certainly does not have!), nor do we have a greenhouse (yet) where such plants could be grown. However, there are many plants we can start with and gradually expand as we get more experience over the next few years.

Another difference is that we do not want just pretty plants all in a row (to paraphrase an English nursery rhyme [Mary Mary Quite Contrary]), we want to use them. Such as having a patch of flax as part of the Crafts Council Nederlands Project, 1m2 flax, here in the Netherlands. There is also a group on the Boerhaavelaan who are very keen natural dyers, so perhaps we can grow a range of plants that they can use (think onions, weld, madder, etc). Then there are various schools in the neighbourhood, so perhaps setting up a dye plant project with them as part of sustainability? The plan is also to have the garden open to the general public during the office hours of the TRC.

It has been a busy time at the TRC, thanks to various activities, meetings, applying for funds (successfully!), workshops and courses, preparing manuscripts for publication, more meetings, as well as trying to sort out the paperwork, building activities, plans, etc, involved in moving an institute such as the TRC to larger premises (Boerhaavelaan 6). Below are some of the things that have been happening over the last few weeks, in more or less chronological order. The illustrations in this blog reflect the wide diversity of the TRC collection.

Bundle of bobbin lace (edging) from Sri Lanka, 1982. The lace was ordered by Hélène Nauta-Barge (a former occupant of Boerhaave 6) from a group in Sri Lanka with the intention of selling it in the Netherlands to raise money for the lace makers (TRC 2025.1497).

We are continuing to get ready for the move to the urban villa just behind the Leiden railway station, and it is now reckoned about 4000 boxes, mainly for the collection, need to be shifted! The library, for example, is just about packed and there are well over 350 boxes, each weighing 10kg (as requested by the removal company).

(Leiden, 12 October 2025) From January until April 2025, I conducted extensive fieldwork in Cairo on the subject of khayamiya, for my research master’s thesis in Religious Studies at Utrecht University.

Fig. 1. Ramadan stall in Mohandiseen, Cairo, 2025. Photograph by Christina de Korte.

Khayamiya represents an appliqué technique that is primarily used for decorating panels for large, handmade tents, but the technique is nowadays also used for all kinds of other objects, such as tote bags and cushion covers.

Fig. 1. Modern vyshyvanka recently donated to the TRC. Kyiv, Ukraine, polyester, machine embroidered (TRC 2025.0149).If there is one thing I have learned about dress while volunteering at the TRC, it is how inextricably linked clothing is to identity. Dress is a physical marker of identity. It can embody the inexpressible—the sense of belonging to a specific culture, to a distinctive history, and to a specific country. All this carried in a piece of cloth.

Yet it still amazes me how emotive and political clothing can be. The link between identity and dress may become even stronger when that identity is perceived as under threat.

This was brought home to me yet again on a recent Instagram post. The post was from a very upset Ukrainian woman. She was reposting a photograph of a densely embroidered woman’s traditional skirt and blouse. In the original post, the ensemble had been identified as Russian.