Embroidered panel from Rwanda, ca. 2018 (TRC 2021.2052).The last two weeks have been a very busy and slightly surreal time at the TRC, as we have re-opened to the public! More and more visitors are coming to see the Buteh to Paisley exhibition, workshops and guided tours are taking place, as well as the 5-day intensive textile course, with participants from France, the Netherlands as well as Sweden - Lena’s trip from Scandinavia was literally organised within a few days, after the rules were changed and it became clear she could come. The intensive textile course will be run again in August, October and November of this year, as well as four times in 2022. The August and October courses are already quickly filling up.

Boxes of textiles, garments and accessories have been arriving from around the globe, including an amazing donation of Japanese garments dating from the 1920’s to the 1970’s by the Noda family. These include garments for festive occasions for boys and girls, wedding items, as well as woollen kimonos, which I had never seen before. Some of these garments will be included in a planned TRC mini-exhibition about Japanese garments, while others will be in the forthcoming TRC exhibition about the history of ikat. We have also had a box of Guatemalan items sent by Charles and Carolyn Knobler in Los Angeles, who have been supporting the TRC by helping us to build up our Central and South American holdings.

Chinese tiger hat from the mid-20th century (TRC 2021.2036).A little closer to home, we have received various collections from people here in the Netherlands, notably the Joop and May Hobijn-Roth donation, which includes a wide range of items from Africa, Asia and the Middle East. Today we received a very different range of clothing, namely an original 'little black dress’ outfit consisting of a black, beaded jacket and a black velvet skirt, by the Dutch designer Edgar Voss (1931-2010), and more spectacularly a wedding dress especially designed by Max Heijmans (1918-1997) for the wedding of Willem and Monica Penders in 1966. We also received their wedding photograph.

In addition, we have been offered an extensive lace library as well as a collection of lace items. And on Friday we are going to Hoek van Holland to pick up some pieces from Myanmar, Vietnam, as well as Mexico and Guatemala.

And why are we taking all these items? Because we are determined to create a comprehensive collection of world textiles and dress, reflecting thousands of years of technical skills and creativity, which will inspire and stimulate people right now and in the future! All part and parcel of our development of a world class centre for the study of textiles and dress as well as a textile artisan centre here in Leiden.

Cloth badge with the woven image of a woman from Friesland, the Netherlands, in regional dress. 20th century (TRC 2021.2018d).The artisan centre will teach a wide range of hand textile techniques and their context. We are already working with Dutch groups to develop this idea, such as the Crafts Council Nederlands, the Hogeschool Enschede, the Stichting Guney, as well as groups in Denmark, Great Britain and Germany. We have contacted a number of teachers who are prepared to give classes on a range of techniques, including spinning and the making of bobbin lace, Turkish oya, embroidery and weaving with small looms.

The aim is to offer workshops, courses, study days and lectures on a wide range of techniques and their histories, literally from all over the world, and all of this needs to be supported by a wide collection of textiles and accessories. Right now, the TRC collection stands at ca. 35,000 items, most of which have been catalogued, photographed, and made accessible online.

In order to make our plans into reality, we are actively looking for larger premises in Leiden to house all the TRC facilities and the proposed teaching commitments. Last week we had a very constructive meeting with Yvonne van Delft, the Wethouder Cultuur of the Leiden Council, and she offered to help in various manners. We would like to thank everyone for their enthusiasm, advice and help in making our plans into a reality.

Something positive and energising in these strange days!

Gillian Vogelsang, Director TRC, 11 July 2021