First and foremost may 2024 be a peaceful year!
It may have been an extended holiday period, with both Christmas and New Year, but many aspects of life at the TRC have continued, including cataloguing items, writing blogs, newsletters, even starting on the annual report for 2023 (all TRC annual reports from 1999 onwards are available online here) and, of course, reading about textiles and dress in all its many forms. I was also interested in reading a recent BBC article where they described various trends discernible for catwalks fashion in 2023 and by projection in 2024.
Three identical Tenerife lace circles with a central wheel. The Netherlands, early 20th century (TRC 2023.2603a-c).
There were some interesting predictions, including the greater use of polka dots, ribbons, cherry red, metallic fabrics, re-cycling, as well as knitwear and lace. I had not thought about the increase in ribbons and polka dotted garments, but knitwear and especially lace is very apparent. In fact we have been muttering that lace is coming back long before the BBC item!
Women’s clothing is becoming more feminine after decades of male styles adapted for women – straight sides (no curvy bits), wide power shoulders of the 1980s, pin stripe suits and, of course, jeans for all. It is worth noting that there is the accompanying increase and use of lace and related materials, such as broderie anglaise.
Part of a machine embroidered (broderie anglaise) lace cap from Zeeland, the Netherlands, 1920s (TRC 2006.0070).
We inevitably come to the question, what is lace? As a generalisation we follow the definition that lace is a decorative textile whereby a pattern is created that has more holes than ground; the technique is secondary. And yes, there will be people who disagree and state that the only ‘true’ lace is bobbin lace and perhaps needle lace, while all the other forms are ‘fakes’, but at the TRC we tend to take a broader view of things!
Quite deliberately, lace, in all its many forms, is playing a growing role in the TRC Collection.
Lace sample from Switzerland, Chantilly technique (TRC 2010.0169).In the recent donation of items from the Naaldkunst Museum, Winschoten, for example, there are several boxes that together include over 100 examples of ‘lace’ made by a variety of techniques, including bobbin forms, needle laces, Tenerife lace, forms that are embroidered on net (filet) and tulle (with either chain stitch or darning stitch), crocheting, knitting, as well as cotton and white flax lace examples, silk bobbin lace (blonde and Maltese), black Chantilly lace, and passementerie lace made from thick cords.
There are also various examples of nineteenth century machine lace, as well as combinations of embroidery, lace and darned netting techniques. In other words, a interesting selection of the possible forms that could come under the term ‘lace’.
Tape lace collar, late 19th century, UK (TRC 2006.0250).More specifically the Winschoten boxes included various individual swatch pages as well as books with samples of machine made lace from Switzerland, Germany and Belgium. There are also about thirty garments and accessories made from lace, notably collars, jabots, as well as lappets and Dutch lace caps (mainly from the east of the country, such as Friesland). Most of these items will be put online over the next few weeks.
In addition to the catalogue we are publishing the TRC lace collection in various forms. We have recently had a blog about Tenerife lace, which will soon be turned into a mini-exhibition (actual and online).
Round doily made in hairpin lace technique. Europe, 20th century (TRC 2016.2428).And we are now working on a mini-exhibition about the various types of tape lace, which are produced with hand made and/or machine woven tapes (highlighting the difference between duchess tape lace, Brussels tape lace and Bruges tape lace, etc). Other forms of lace that will be presented are hairpin lace and crochet lace (especially from Ireland).
Basically, the TRC plans to make a comprehensive collection of lace for identification and inspiration purposes, are going ahead. This collection is based on real examples that can be examined. We firmly believe that it makes a huge difference to be able to see, feel and discuss actual pieces, rather than simply looking at them in a photograph or behind glass. The skill and creativity of some of these lace makers and designers are simply amazing and fascinating.
Some 2024 lace events at the TRC Leiden:
* In 2024 various various members of the International Bobbin and Needle Lace Organization (OIDFA Nederland) kindly will again come to the TRC to help sort out our Reference collection of lace. They have been doing so for some time. On the 6th January we had the first session of the year and more are planned for later in the year.
Board with lace bobbins (TRC 2007.0494).• For the last few years we have been running bobbin lace workshops at the TRC, given by Gon Homburg (a member of OIDFA). In 2024 Gon will be doing six workshops where participants will be experimenting with figurative bobbin lace making. Rather than doilies or other traditional forms of lace, we will be using bobbin lace techniques to create small figures, such as flowers, animals, eggs, ships, etc. No advance knowledge is required, but those who know the basics of bobbin lace making will make more complicated figures.
Dates: 31 January, 21 February, 13 March; 10 April, 15 May, 29 May. For registration and more information, click here.
• The TRC’s mini-exhibition about Tenerife lace will be on view from the 29th January until the 28th March 2024.
• Shetland knitted lace is going to be the subject of a TRC workshop to be held on the 19 June 2024. The Shetland Islands in the far north of the United Kingdom are famous for their lace knitting. Although the results look complicated, the underlying patterns are relatively simple. This workshop will give some historic background on Shetland lace and will offer you a first experience of reading pattern charts and knitting lace patterns.
Date: Wednesday 19 June 2024. Time: 10.00 - 13.00 pm. Location: TRC Leiden, Hogewoerd 164, 2351 HW Leiden, The Netherlands. Instructor: Alice van Duijnen. Language: Dutch and/or English. Costs: 40 euros (to be paid at the start of the meeting). Coffee / tea and materials are provided. Please register in advance: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 10 January 2024
