Ann Cable, 6 February 2024.
I was recently helping a friend downsize and this involved sorting many textiles which she would donate to the TRC. One of these was a smocked child’s dress, made in Indonesia for her daughter in around 1973 (TRC 2023.1894). Smocking is a technique whereby a series of pleats are made that are fastened together with embroidery stitches. This was a popular way to create a slightly stretchy garment, before the invention of elastic.
Copy of Weldon's Practical Smocking magazine (no. 19, vol. 2; July 1887) with a wide range of patterns, stitches and ideas (TRC 2024.0356).
Smocked clothing is not seen so often now, apart from on the romper suits of young British Royals, but as a child I had many dresses hand smocked by my mother. I knew smocking had a long and varied history, but coincidentally a few weeks later another friend gave me a magazine entitled Practical Smocking, part of Weldon’s Practical Needlework Series and priced at 2d (old pence). Weldon’s started publishing monthly magazines in around 1885, each devoted to one technique. The magazine would date to July 1887.
Girl's dress with smocking, Indonesia, 1973 (TRC 2023.1894).
The smocking magazine (no. 19, vol. 2; TRC 2024.0356) was published in July 1887 and contains instructions on how to smock, several patterns and a brief history. It also has some wonderful advertisements, for example for HW Velvet Grip Stocking Supporters.
The magazine is an interesting piece of social history. It answered some of my questions about the history of English smocking too. Apparently, although believed to be of ancient origin, little is known until around the 13th century when women and girls wore loose garments known as smocs or smickets, the name deriving from the Anglo-Saxon word smocc meaning ‘a garment to creep into.’
Page from Weldon's Practical Smocking magazine (no. 19, vol. 2; July 1887) with a wide range of patterns, stitches and ideas (TRC 2024.0356).Such smocks would have been made of linen and embroidered in colours and gold. In the early 18th century, there used to be smock races at May Fairs, the winner receiving a new lace smock as a prize.
By the 19th century smocks had become associated with outdoor dress (smock or smock frock) worn by farm labourers and particularly shepherds, such as the Dorset, Suffolk and Somerset forms. These were made of rough linen or stronger cloth but the bodice and sleeve heads were still often beautifully embroidered with the skirt section was left plain and loose.
By the time the smocking magazine by Weldon's was published, smocking had come back into fashion and was used to decorate all kinds of clothing for women and children. The magazine continues: ‘so greatly has it [smocking] increased in favour that it is now a recognised style of fashionable dress, and forms an effective trimming, either in the form of a yoke or let in as a waistcoat, the sleeves also being smocked in similar pattern above the elbow and again at the wrist.’
Cover of a Vogue pattern, 1970s (TRC 2024.0357).There then follow several pages of detailed instruction about how to achieve evenness and regularity in your smocking as ‘the whole beauty of smocking depends on this.’ The patterns include ideas for ‘smocked drawers’ (underpants) and a smocked bathing suit!
In the late 1969s and 1970s there was a revival in smocking and various fashion houses and companies produced smocked garments, including Vogue (TRC 2024.0357). Then it went out of sashion again.
So maybe it’s time for a smocking revival! Is there anyone who could run a workshop, I wonder?
PS the TRC has an interesting selection of smocking samples produced by Belgian and Dutch school girls. The samples date mainly from the early 20th century, such as TRC 2023.1516, TRC 2023.1519, TRC 2023.2783, TRC 2024.0160, TRC 2024.0165, TRC 2024.0197, TRC 2024.0198.
School sample of smocking using a red and white gingham cloth and white embroidery thread. There are over seven different types of decorative effects and stitching. The Netherlands, 20th century (TRC 2023.1516).
School sample of smocking using a blue and yellow checked cloth and red and black embroidery yarn. The Netherlands, 20th century (TRC 2023.1519).
Sample of smocking using a blue and white gingham ground and embroidered with various smocking stitches using red and yellow yarns. The Netherlands, 20th century (TRC 2024.0160).
Sample of smocking using a blue and white gingham ground and embroidered in various smocking stitches using white and red yarns. The Netherlands, 20th century (TRC 2024.0165).
Large sampler with a variety of stitches and techniques including embroidery, smocking, pile work, fringing, etc. The Netherlands, 20th century (TRC 2024.0198).
Large sampler with a variety of stitches and techniques including embroidery, smocking, beading, mending, needle lace, embroidered buttons, applique, etc. The Netherlands, 20th century (TRC 2024.0197).
