Collar decorated with floral broderie anglaise, handmade, c. 1900, the Netherlands (TRC 2007.0755).Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 1 June 2024
While working on the various European volumes of the Bloomsbury World Encyclopedia of Embroidery, we often come across broderie anglaise, otherwise also sometimes known as broderie de Calais, although there are minor differences. There are various examples of this type of embroidery in the TRC collection.
In the US the term Madeira work is frequently used. As such it is named after the Portuguese island of Madeira, which lies in the Atlantic Ocean, west of Morocco. It was probably introduced on Madeira by Catholic nuns who taught in convent schools.
But what is broderie anglaise?
Basically it is a type of whitework, i.e., embroidery using white threads on a white ground, with the pattern mainly made from eyelets. These are small, round or oval holes deliberately cut into the ground material.
Printed pattern for a garment with a broderie anglaise neckline, handmade, aearly 20th century (TRC 2024.1570).With respect to the hand embroidered forms, the areas to be cut are first drawn or printed onto the ground material and the eyelets are subsequently cut out with a pair of fine scissors.
On other occasions, the pattern is punched out using sharp dies. In both forms, the edges of the eyelets are then neatened and strengthened with either overcast stitches or buttonhole stitches. Some examples may include further embroidered details, which are worked in satin stitch.
As a generalisation, broderie anglaise has floral patterns, including elements such as flower heads, leaves, stems, scrolls, etc., in various combinations of eyelets and ground.
Back of a lace cap from Walcheren, Zeeland, the Netherlands, created using a machine made broderie anglaise (mid-20th century) (TRC 2016.1349).
Detachable sleeve decorated with broderie anglaise, handmade, c. 1850, the Netherlands (TRC 2006.0134).In contrast, if the designs are more geometric than floral, then this type of embroidery is sometimes referred to as broderie de Calais, after the French port of the same name. It should not be confused with dentelle de Calais, which is a form of both hand or machine-made lace.
A brief history
Eyelet and cutwork embroidery, such as broderie anglaise, has been produced in various parts of Europe for hundreds of years, but it became especially popular in England in the mid-19th century. Hence the name.
Broderie anglaise used to be hand embroidered, but very quickly, machine-made forms were developed. By the end of the 19th century, broderie anglaise was produced by various types of embroidery machines, notably the Leaver machine.
Example of broderie anglaise with a geometric pattern, machine-made, late 20th century (TRC 2014.0919).This type of decorative whitework, hand or machine-made forms, were used in many parts of Europe and elsewhere to decorate a variety of dress items, including detachable sleeves, sleeve cuffs, collars, blouses, petticoats, aprons, and indeed complete dresses, especially for young boys and girls.
By the 1930s, many types of machine embroidered cloth were available, including forms that were described as broderie anglaise even if the main pattern was not just in white. Popular colours for broderie anglaise in the 1930s, for example, included black, pink, dark blue, as well as white.
During the Second World War (1939-1945) and afterwards, broderie anglaise went out of fashion, as the military/functional look prevailed, but it returned by the early 1960s. In the 1980s, power dressing and masculine forms for women’s clothing meant it went out of fashion again.
Baby’s gown decorated with machine lace and broderie anglaise, c. 1900, The Netherlands (TRC 2018.0300).However, since the 2020 and the Covid pandemic, it has been noticeable that embroidery and lace are making a rapid come-back in the world of fashion and the use of broderie anglaise is on the increase once again.
And yes, while writing this blog I am wearing a white, broderie anglaise blouse….
