At the end of November 2023, Dieter Suls of the ModeMuseum (MoMu), Antwerp, Belgium, came to the TRC in Leiden to see what we are doing and how. His visit included a discussion about the role of textiles, dress and fashion in society. He was amazed about what can be done, at the TRC, by a group of dedicated (obsessed?) people with limited resources.
Exhibition at the MoMu, Antwerp
Willem (a former museum curator) and I have just paid a return visit to MoMu and we discussed various subjects for two, very animated hours. The passion for fashion and presenting it to the world was apparent. The MoMu was originally set up when there were many independent fashion houses in Antwerp, of varying sizes. The museum is financially supported by the Antwerp Council and although fashion is less commercially important than it used to be, the Council supports the museum as an important cultural and historical venue that attracts local, national and international specialists, local (school) groups and tourists.
MoMu building, AntwerpVarious buildings have been incorporated into the MoMu and so the levels vary considerably, but the result is a large, attractive museum with exhibition spaces, a bookshop, a library, work rooms, and a compact auditorium. The main collection is stored elsewhere, in climate controlled conditions (in conjunction with Katoen Natie, an international company based in Antwerp). There is a fashion institute on one of the upper floors of the museum, so students and trainees have nearly direct access to the library, exhibition areas and indeed staff, so that questions and ideas can be discussed very quickly.
The discussions also covered the use of study collections, the intended target groups, and the role such collections can have in taking pressure off the main collections, especially in museums that work with ICOM (an international professional body) and its regulations. The contrasts between an independent non-museum institute, such as the TRC, and an institute with a museum-status (MoMu) were interesting, especially with respect to what is considered ‘museum worthy’, the processes of accepting items and indeed, removing them from the collection, and in general the 'mission' of the institute.
Another interesting point was raised by Birgit Ansoms, the librarian, namely that the number of visitors using the MoMu library had gradually been in decline, but since having the textiles study collection in the library the numbers were on the increase. This is due to accessibility; people can actually study garments and textiles and then people can consult the books to check details and facts, and they keep coming back to use the books.
Exhibition at MoMu, AntwerpWe were shown the combined library and textile/dress study room, as well as a work area and depot, all in the same part of the building. For anyone interested in textiles and dress: to have books and textiles together is paradise.
In addition to groups of students and others attending workshops on various aspects of fashion, one of the projects being set up involves the so-called Pattern-a-thon, whereby patterns of various garments are made, checked, and eventually put online. A small fee is asked for using the garment patterns. Perhaps this is a project in which the TRC can also get involved. A group from MoMu will come to Leiden again and will continue our talks.
All in all, it was stimulating to look at and discuss the various possibilities of working together and supporting each other.
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 23 March 2024
