Tunic with appliqué decoration, Jianhe Miao, China, 20th century (TRC 2024.2604).Willem and I went to Belgium the other day in order to pick up the second group of textiles and garments from Hélène van Spaendonck. Most of these garments were collected among the Maio minority ethnic group in southern China.
As noted in an earlier blog, she is downsizing and has slowly been giving part of her beloved collection of textiles and garments to various family members and museums.
The bulk of the textiles, however, she decided to give to the TRC because, as she told us, we understand the objects, we are active in preserving textile skills and knowledge and will use these objects to pass on the skills.
The fact that many people have access to the collection, directly and online, was another important reason for her to work with us.
Embroidered waistcoat, Miao, China, 20th century (TRC 2024.2642).
The first group included items from around the world, as for instance from Guatemala, Mali, India and China. The second batch, which we collected two weeks ago, mainly consists of garments associated with ethnic minorities from China, especially various groups of Miao living in southern China, but also others. Fascinating are several shaman garments, also from among the Miao.
Embroidered collar, Songtao Miao, China, 20th century (TRC 2024.2547).There are well over one hundred pieces and they range from embroidered panels (mainly worked for adding to jacket sleeves), embroidered shoes and boots for children, to headwear of various types. There are also numerous jackets and skirts, some worked in a combination of embroidery and resist dyed (batiks) techniques. A few of these items are illustrated in this blog. We will be adding all these pieces to the TRC Catalogue over the next few weeks.
The fineness of some of the embroidery is truly amazing. The embroiderers were working over one or two warp/weft threads of the ground cloth at a time in order to produce minute stitches. I shall be working with the magnifying glass and dinolite microscope to examine details of some of them!
Embroidered pair of boots, Yi, China, 20th century (TRC 2024.2555a b).Another visit to Belgium is planned for next week in order to pick up the last group, also Miao pieces, including baby carriers, jackets and skirts and I am sure there will be some stunning garments.
One of the questions I have been asked is why is the TRC interested in these garments, given the acute (and ever increasing) problem of a lack of space. Well, it is for two reasons. Firstly, we are (gently) working on the last four volumes of Bloomsbury's World Encyclopedia of Embroidery, and really need to see these Chinese items ‘in the flesh’, so to speak. I need to see the front and back of embroidered items in order to understand and ‘get the feel’ of them. Something that just cannot be done from photographs or seeing the objects from a distance and behind glass. I need to compare and contrast different examples and their techniques.
Secondly, there is a growing, outside awareness of the importance of textiles and dress as an important, if not essential form of (material) culture and there is an increasing demand by more and more individuals and groups, with different skill sets, to handle and work with textiles and garments.
Embroidered panel, Leishan, China, 20th century (TRC 2024.2608).
As interest and research into practical sustainability increases, there is a need for people to have access to objects representing various techniques (artisan skills). Not just talking about it or attending the occasional workshop, but consciously and continually acquiring skills, knowledge and experience.
Pair of embroidered sleeve panels, Miao, China, 20th century (TRC 2024.2644a b).This point can be shown by the fact that the TRC in Leiden is unique in Europe in having such a diverse and ‘deep’ collection of textiles and clothing and is attracting visitors from around the world. In the last few weeks we have welcomed people, not only from the Netherlands, but also from Iceland, Britain (both England and Scotland), Ireland, France, Estonia, America and China, who all came to the TRC for various reasons, but with the main aim of learning about textiles.
In one case it was a museum curator (from Hong Kong) who wanted to see the TRC’s reference collection and to discuss how such collections can help the public’s experience of material culture and textiles in particular. Not long ago we had a curator from MoMu, Antwerp on a similar quest. Next week we have someone coming from America, as well as a British student who wants to do an internship at the TRC in 2025. And remaining closer to home, this week or the next we hope to see a group of Leiden University anthropology students who want to "hear about and see alternative ways of studying textiles and dress."
Embroidered cap, Miao, China, 20th century (TRC 2024.2561).One of the visitors was amazed at the range of activities, both actual and online, presented by such a small group at the TRC and how important the TRC is as a knowledge home for both now and the future. We cannot disagree!
Leiden with its history, university, as well as access to local, national and international transportation (namely via Schiphol airport, and other forms of transportation) and simply being a pleasant place to live in and visit is a perfect spot for us! Basically, the fame of the TRC's practical and down to earth nature is spreading! The trick will be to grow while keeping its unique character and inclusive nature.
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 8 September 2024
