Fig. 1. Padded container for a glass kohl bottle. Palestine, early/mid 20th century (TRC 2005.0086).The announcement in December 2025 that kohl is now included in the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity sent me immediately to the TRC’s on-line catalogue in order to learn more. What exactly is kohl and what role does it play in dress and identity?

The UNESCO description states that “Arabic Kohl is both a craft and a social practice that is integral to the lifestyle of Bedouin and nomadic tribes, as well as rural, marshland, and fishing communities in the Arab region.... In addition to being a symbol of community identity and a key part of daily beauty routines, kohl is used as a physical and spiritual healing remedy."

The UNESCO text continues: "[Kohl] promotes dialogue and fosters meaningful exchanges between nations and communities of women. Kohl-rimmed eyes also serve as a strong form of female expression, particularly in societies where only eyes are visible due to face coverings."

First and foremost, may this year be a peaceful and successful year for everyone.

As you probably know by now, the TRC is moving, within two months, to new premises and we soon hope to attract more fellows, interns and volunteers, to help the existing core of indefatigable supporters who have helped the TRC to prepare the institute for its new and exciting next phase. Many thanks to all of you!

The first additions to the TRC Collection in 2026: Two hand-woven Guatemalan ikats decorated with large pom-poms and tassels. Guatemala, late 20th century (TRC 2026.0001 and TRC 2026.0002).

For the next few weeks, until mid-February 2026, we will be busy with the Herculean (or so it feels) physical move of the TRC (and its collection and library!) from the Hogewoerd to our new premises on the Boerhaavelaan (No. 6), just behind the Leiden Central Railway Station.

After the move (well, there may still be some painters wandering around), we will be presenting the next session of the renowned TRC Five-Day Intensive Textile Course. There is still one place left for the course should anyone be interested! The next edition of the Intensive Course will be organised in April, and there are currently still some places available.

But the series of Intensive Courses is only one of the many activities we are organising at our new home. The period from March to September 2026 includes a diverse programme with many workshops, lectures and courses, which will be complemented by a series of large and small exhibitions that reflect the TRC’s amazing collection.

Please come and join us, and at the same time have a look at, and enjoy, our new premises. The programme of activities can be seen, and/or downloaded here. Please feel free to register (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.) for one or more of the events, and don’t forget to keep an eye on the agenda. We are planning many more activities!

Gillian Vogelsang, Director TRC, 2 January 2026

Boreray Ram. Commons Wikimedia.It’s a good feeling to think that the TRC’s next Intensive Textile Course (23-27 February, 2026) will take place in our new home. One of the most enjoyable parts of that course was the section about fibre identification. The chance to see, touch and smell the incredible variety of plant and animal fibres that have been turned into textiles is amazing.

The TRC has samples of a wide range of animal fibres in its collection, from alpacas, camels, goats, horses, llamas, seals, silk worms (both wild and cultivated) and, of course, sheep.

The TRC recently received a donation of wool from a very rare breed of sheep—the Boreray (TRC 2025.1854a) The wool is very soft, lanolin-rich, with colours that range from white to light grey. It was collected this summer by a friend of mine, from one of the several small herds in the Orkney Islands. Because she is a spinner, she also donated some spun Boreray wool (TRC 2025.1854b).

(Leiden, 15 Nov. 2025) In this blog I take a look at some spectacles from the late 19th to mid-20th century. I myself, like many others, wear glasses on a daily basis, yet after looking at the wide variety of styles and types of glasses in the TRC collection (very much part of 'dress'), I realised how little I know of the development of this accessory over the centuries. So I want to take you along on my brief dive into the history of some types of glasses.

Fig. 1. Pair of spectacles, 1920s, The Netherlands (TRC 2022.3091b).

The first load of more than 400 boxes being moved from Hogewoerd 164 to temporary storage, 7 November 2025.(Leiden, 9 Nov. 2025) It's been quite a time at the TRC. A few weeks ago we heard about the discovery of (more) asbestos in various parts of the TRC’s new home at the Boerhaavelaan (known to us as B6). We are not allowed into the whole of the building and garden for all of November, while the asbestos is being removed.

An understandable, but frustrating ban, which has caused problems with respect to the move from Hogewoerd to B6, as well as building and painting requirements in the new building. Not to mention the fact we were supposed to be out of our current building by the end of December.

Fortunately, the owner of the Hogewoerd building has just said we can stay there until mid-January, which will make a considerable difference. All being well (fingers and toes crossed) the work on the internal needs of our new home will start on the 5th December and we can officially move in by mid-January.

(Leiden, 6 Nov. 2025) Kirkus Review is a book review magazine founded in 1933 by Virginia Kirkus. The publisher, Kirkus Media, has its headquarters in New York. Its online version has just published a review of Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood's latest book: The Atlas of World Embroidery. A Global exploration of Heritage and Styles and awarded it with the coveted 'star'. For more information about the book, see an earlier blog.

The review can be read and downloaded here. The Atlas will be published by Princeton University Press on 17 February 2026. A Dutch version will be published at the same time by WBooks. A book launch of both the English and Dutch versions will take place on Friday, 20 February 2026, in the new 'home' of the TRC at the Boerhaavelaan 6, Leiden.

(Leiden, 5 Nov. 2025) The Stichting (Foundation) Monumentenbezit, the owner of Boerhaavelaan 6 where the TRC soon hopes to find a new home, has published an article about the building, its history and its architectural jewels, but also about the new occupants of the building, namely the TRC. You can read or download the article, which contains a number of beautiful photographs, here.

Boerhaavelaan 6 Leiden

Tetouan kaftan, displayed in the Bab Oqla Museum, Tetouan.(Leiden, 5 Nov. 2025) A current highlight from the TRC Collection (TRC 2023.0531)) is this Moroccan kaftan, dating from the late 19th or early 20th century. It is made out of Syrian satin silk and beautifully embroidered with gold and silver threads.

This type of kaftan used to be worn by women in the Tétouan region (northeastern Morocco) and is thus often referred to as a “Tétouan kaftan” (Caftan de Tétouan).

This style, especially with its large sleeves, is rarely worn by younger generations. It may originally have been worn together with other items of clothing, such as an embroidered bolero that was cinched at the waist with a belt.