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Article in the Dutch women's magazine Libelle about re-purposing a blanket, 1946.Article in the Dutch women's magazine Libelle about re-purposing a blanket, 1946.“A lovely jacket to wear indoors – as we can’t yet afford the luxury of turning up the heating other than when strictly necessary - but also nice to wear on the tennis court”. This is what the Dutch women’s magazine Libelle wrote in 1946 about the sewing pattern for a sport's jacket made from a leftover woollen blanket.

I recently came across this article in the TRC magazine collection. It struck me because it could easily have been a recent article about upcycling textiles. It is, however, an example of how magazines contributed to helping households to repurpose other textiles into garments in the aftermath of the Second World War.

Libelle is a - still running - Dutch women’s magazine. At the time sewing was a common subject in women’s lifestyle journals. They would feature sewing patterns, either included in the issue itself or as advertorials for patterns that could be ordered by mail.

During and after the Second World War textiles were scarce in the Netherlands, as it was in many other counties. This caused the government to implement a coupon system. Households were allowed to purchase a number of garments based on the size of the family. This meant everyone had to be as mindful as possible about buying and looking after their garments. The exhibition ‘Textile Tales from the Second World War’ contains many examples of re-purposed textiles.

Partially used sheet of textile rationing coupons for women, the Netherlands, 1946 (TRC 2020.3670).Partially used sheet of textile rationing coupons for women, the Netherlands, 1946 (TRC 2020.3670).

In the article Van oude deken tot sportjasje ('From old blanket to sports jacket'), Libelle provides a pattern and description for a simple sports jacket. The novelty of the jacket lies in the fact that the stripes of the blanket can be used as accents on the front and back panel of the bodice.

The sewing description is very short compared to contemporary sewing patterns. This is often the case in older sewing patterns: most readers had at least a basic understanding of sewing. For example: the writer provided guidelines about what stitches to use, but did not explain at what point the sleeves should be inserted or how the top of the sleeve is gathered (based on the picture of the finished garment the sleeve seems to be gathered).

Back of the sport's jacket, made from a blanket, Libelle 1946.Back of the sport's jacket, made from a blanket, Libelle 1946.Although it used to be common in the Netherlands to make clothing for yourself and your family, the interest in sewing has long been declining. The low price of clothing in stores is likely one of the reasons for this. In recent years, however, sewing seems to regain popularity. There is a large and expanding community of people making, mending and repurposing their own clothing. Their motives include doing it for hobby, to make something unique and to become more conscious and environmental-friendly.

On social media many people are sharing their self-made garments for which they re-use textiles, such as blankets, to make unique pieces of clothing. Whereas after the Second World War scarcity of textiles was the main motive to make and repair clothing, nowadays the abundance of textiles becomes a new reason to do so.

Joshua Verkerk, TRC volunteer, 26 November 2021

Last week the TRC Leiden launched a campaign to raise funds to bring two collections to Leiden. One of the collections is currently in Arizona, while the other is in Paris and together they include about 2000 textiles and garments. These mainly come from Central Europe and neighbouring countries, as well as many items from other parts of the world, including Japan, India, Africa and the Americas.

A selection of garments from Central Europe, now still in Paris, that have been donated to the TRC.A selection of garments from Central Europe, now still in Paris, that have been donated to the TRC.

For five full working days, an international team of participants with a particular interest and need for a deeper understanding of textiles, were gathered around Dr Vogelsang-Eastwood at the Textile Research Centre in Leiden, the Netherlands. The world-renowned expert in the analysis and history of all kinds of textiles meticulously introduced us to the characteristics of global textiles and textile making.

Finishing the course with a very special textile from the TRC collection (TRC 2014.0938): A 9-m long 'pronkrol' (long sampler) from the Netherlands, made in 1909 by Cato de Keijzer, aged 15.Finishing the course with a very special textile from the TRC collection (TRC 2014.0938): A 9-m long 'pronkrol' (long sampler) from the Netherlands, made in 1909 by Cato de Keijzer, aged 15.

Some months ago Gillian Vogelsang wrote about a donation of textiles collected by Joop and May Hobijn-Roth. Part of that donation was an interesting collection of embroidered bands and patches (for instance, TRC 2021.2233-2250).

Factory embroidered band, the Netherlands, 1920s-1930s (TRC 2021.2238).Factory embroidered band, the Netherlands, 1920s-1930s (TRC 2021.2238).

The last ten days have been very diverse and yet at the same time characteristic for the work and activities associated with the TRC Leiden.

The participants of the November 2021 TRC Intensive Textile Course, at the end of the five days! The second woman from the left is wearing a hand-woven Estonian skirt.The participants of the November 2021 TRC Intensive Textile Course, at the end of the five days! The second woman from the left is wearing a hand-woven Estonian skirt.

On Wednesday (10th November) I took part in an online conference about Textile Tokens that was organised by Polly Leonard of the journal Selvedge (London). A variety of talks on very different subjects were given, including one by Prof. John Styles about textile tokens that came with babies and young children associated with the Foundling Hospital, London in the 18th century. Willem and I visited the former Hospital some years ago; a fascinating, and at the same time very sad place.

The TRC has recently been offered two impressive and fascinating collections of Central European and Balkan textiles, clothing and jewellery, as well as items from other parts of the world, including Afghanistan and Central Asia, Georgia, Japan, Palestine, Syria, and America. The last include a group of beautiful Middle American blouses with reverse appliqué (mola), not to mention 36 traditional American quilts!

A small part of the collection of Central and Southeast European garments, donated to the TRC, now still in Paris.A small part of the collection of Central and Southeast European garments, donated to the TRC, now still in Paris.

There was an international press conference this morning in Leiden to present the official programme of Leiden: European City of Science 2022. The press conference was organised to present and discuss this prestigious event and what it will involve for Leiden.

The main theme of Leiden: City of Science 2022 is Curiosity, with the idea that people will attend the many planned events from a feeling of interest and the desire to learn more. Many different groups and institutes are involved, ranging from Leiden University, scientific and technical institutes and companies, the many Leiden-based museums, as well as a range of cultural and social groups, And of course, the TRC is part of the programme!

There are many sub-themes. Every day, for all 365 days of 2022. Each day a different topic will be explored within the wider world of science, society, art, culture and artisanship. Some of these topics are obvious – atmosphere, stone, virus, drones, even beer. Others are less so, such as quiz, rendez-vous, and co-operation, but all the more stimulating for being not so obvious.

Detail of an early 20th century baptismal gown from Friesland, the Netherlands, with shadow work embroidery in herringbone stitch along the collar (TRC 2019.0028).Detail of an early 20th century baptismal gown from Friesland, the Netherlands, with shadow work embroidery in herringbone stitch along the collar (TRC 2019.0028).Shadow work is a form of needlework that is worked on the reverse side of the ground cloth and leaves a 'shadow' on the obverse, 'top' side. In order to obtain the best effect a sheer (transparent or semi-transparent) material is needed for the ground, such as chiffon or a fine batiste cotton.

There are three basic forms of this type of needlework, namely (A) embroidered, (B) appliqué and (C) padded shadow work. In addition, there are combined forms, such as shadow work embroidery with appliqué.

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The TRC is dependent on project support and individual donations. All of our work is being carried out by volunteers. To support the TRC activities, we therefore welcome your financial assistance: donations can be transferred to bank account number (IBAN) NL39 INGB 000 298 2359, in the name of the Stichting Textile Research Centre. BIC code is: INGBNL2A.

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