Fig. 1. Ukrainian ghillie suit or kikimora (TRC 2025.1840a).A yeti arrived at the TRC the other day… well not an actual yeti, but something similar, and the potential likeness was commented by several people. Actually what we have been given is a ghillie suit (Fig. 1; TRC 2025.1840a) known locally in Ukraine as a kikimora and with it came an intriguing story.

Ghillie suits

But let's start at the beginning, what exactly is a ghillie suit? Basically it is a long, hooded garment used by various groups, including snipers, watchers, trackers, natural life photographers etc., as a form of camouflage.

The word ghillie derives from the Scottish Gaelic word gille, meaning a boy or man who worked as an outdoor servant, such as a gamekeeper or a tracker on one of the remote Scottish estates, where they are in charge of the deer, other animals, birds and fish. It was not uncommon for them to wear tweed clothing that blended into the heather and wooded countryside.

Some time ago the TRC published  a blog about a visit to Estonia by Gillian and Willem Vogelsang. They wrote about the local production of camouflage netting for Ukraine. Last week the TRC IT-consultant, Jonathan Visser, who currently carries out volunteer work in Ukraine for several local organisations, sent us the following appeal for support:

Kitty Pechersk (Печерські котики, 'Kittens from Pechersk') is a volunteer community based in Kyiv, Ukraine, which plays a significant role in the provision of vital fabric-based items to the Ukrainian military. This collective has been producing, by hand, camouflage nets, ghillie suits, helmets, and paraffin trench-candles since the start of the Russian invasion in early 2022.

Group of volunteers of Kitty Pechersk.

For the next three years, the Textile Research Centre, Leidden, the Netherlands, is offering a total of seven junior and four senior fellowships for up to six months each. The fellowships are being sponsored by the Gieskes-Strijbis Foundation, Amsterdam. Fellows are invited to carry out research based on the TRC’s extensive textiles and dress collection. The junior fellows will be supervised and assisted by TRC staff; senior fellows will carry out independent research.

The first of the fellowships is a junior position starting in the spring (March/April) of 2026, depending on the fellow’s and TRC’s agenda. Applications for this position should be submitted to the TRC by 16 January 2026 (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.) with the reference: ‘Fellowship programme’. The TRC will advertise for other fellowships in March 2026. Fellows are selected by a special committee of TRC staff and/or Board members after, if appropriate, the advice of external specialists.

TRC Intensive Textile Course, students at workFor many years the TRC has been running its successful five-day intensive courses on textiles. They are being taught in Dutch or English by Dr Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, textile and dress historian and director of the TRC. This will be the first course to be given in the TRC's new home, at Boerhaavelaan 6, Leiden, just behind the Leiden Central Railway Station.

The courses are a mixture of theoretical and practical elements, with an emphasis on trying out the various techniques of textile production (spinning, dyeing, weaving), on holding and examining fibres, textiles and finished items, all in order to learn and understand what is happening and why various combinations take place.

The aim is to make textiles less ‘frightening’ and allow people to look and understand a textile, from virtually any historical period or culture.

The courses are an absolute 'must' for anyone dealing with archaeological, historical and modern textiles, for designers and fashion students, as well as anyone who is seriously interested in all aspects of textile history and production, and simply wants to know and practise more. 

The upcoming editions of the course: 

Dates for 2026: 23-27 Febr; 20-24 April; 22-26 June; 10-14 Aug; 12-16 Oct.

(Leiden, 15 Nov. 2025) In this blog I take a look at some spectacles from the late 19th to mid-20th century. I myself, like many others, wear glasses on a daily basis, yet after looking at the wide variety of styles and types of glasses in the TRC collection (very much part of 'dress'), I realised how little I know of the development of this accessory over the centuries. So I want to take you along on my brief dive into the history of some types of glasses.

Fig. 1. Pair of spectacles, 1920s, The Netherlands (TRC 2022.3091b).

The new premises of the Textile Research Centre, as seen from the garden.(Leiden, 1 Nov. 2025) We are seeking a highly motivated and well-connected individual to drive the strategic growth and long-term sustainability of the TRC. With your expertise and vision, you will help us professionalise, strengthen and seize new opportunities. The ideal candidate has a strong background in fundraising, strategic planning, and stakeholder engagement. 

KEY RESPONSIBILITIES:

Strategic Planning and Development

• Collaborate with the director of the TRC and the TRC Board to define the long-term strategic direction of the centre.
• Develop workable plans to increase the TRC’s visibility, reach, recognition and impact.
• Contribute to the development and implementation of the marketing and communication strategy.

The first load of more than 400 boxes being moved from Hogewoerd 164 to temporary storage, 7 November 2025.(Leiden, 9 Nov. 2025) It's been quite a time at the TRC. A few weeks ago we heard about the discovery of (more) asbestos in various parts of the TRC’s new home at the Boerhaavelaan (known to us as B6). We are not allowed into the whole of the building and garden for all of November, while the asbestos is being removed.

An understandable, but frustrating ban, which has caused problems with respect to the move from Hogewoerd to B6, as well as building and painting requirements in the new building. Not to mention the fact we were supposed to be out of our current building by the end of December.

Fortunately, the owner of the Hogewoerd building has just said we can stay there until mid-January, which will make a considerable difference. All being well (fingers and toes crossed) the work on the internal needs of our new home will start on the 5th December and we can officially move in by mid-January.

(Leiden, 6 Nov. 2025) Kirkus Review is a book review magazine founded in 1933 by Virginia Kirkus. The publisher, Kirkus Media, has its headquarters in New York. Its online version has just published a review of Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood's latest book: The Atlas of World Embroidery. A Global exploration of Heritage and Styles and awarded it with the coveted 'star'. For more information about the book, see an earlier blog.

The review can be read and downloaded here. The Atlas will be published by Princeton University Press on 17 February 2026. A Dutch version will be published at the same time by WBooks. A book launch of both the English and Dutch versions will take place on Friday, 20 February 2026, in the new 'home' of the TRC at the Boerhaavelaan 6, Leiden.